Pegs

Pitons (or pegs as they are often known in Britain) are, since the advent of modern wires, nuts and camming devices, seldom used in the UK for summer rock-climbing any more. However they are an important tool in winter and alpine climbing where narrow cracks may be choked with ice and other protection hard to find. They are also much used in big wall aid climbing.

Pitons are either Chrome-Molybdenum Hard Steel (made for repeated use) or Mild Steel that deforms to the rock (made for permanent placements). All the pegs we sell are Hard Steel except where clearly indicated otherwise.

Pegs: the four major types
Knifeblades		Thin blade pegs for fine cracks (1 - 3mm) and are the most useful and lightest to carry.
Kingpins		Also known as Lost Arrows. Fat blades made for wider cracks (4 - 7mm). They are rather heavy.
Leepers		Designed and made by American climber Ed Leeper. The term has become generic. They are like channels but with a double U shape, making them suitable for crack sizes in between Kingpins and Channels ( 8 - 15mm).
Channels		Also known as Angles. U or V-shaped pitons made from formed steel sheet for wide cracks (15mm - 25mm).

Knowing what pitons (and indeed what gear in general) to carry for winter climbing is something that comes with experience. The requirements vary from area to area as well. For instance in the Cairngorms, Friends may be found more useful than pitons, whereas on Ben Nevis it is well worth carrying a selection of pitons.

The trick is to get the right balance between weight and safety. Here is a typical Ben Nevis selection:
Knifeblade Long x 1
Knifeblade Medium x 1
Channel Medium x 1
Kingpin x 1 (this last item is quite heavy and many would not carry one but they are useful in iced up cracks that are slightly wider than blade size).
Additional pegs that might be considered are a larger Channel, and a Leeper.

Knifeblades: Thin blade pegs for fine cracks (1 - 3mm) - the most useful and lightest to carry.

C.A.M.P. - Knifeblade Piton

£9.95

Excellent chrome-moly flat blades. Squared end. Choice of three lengths.

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Grivel - Sabre

£7.99

A chrome-moly flat ended blade peg in four sizes.

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Kingpins: (AKA Lost Arrow Pegs) Fat blades made for wider cracks (3 - 7mm). They are rather heavy.

C.A.M.P. - Lost Arrow Piton

£14.95

Thick chrome-moly blades, and quite heavy. Squared end. Choice of eight lengths, of varying wedge shapes.

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Petzl - Universal Piton

£13.99

A slim Kingpin Piton with an offset eye that will apply torque when used in a vertical crack. The length relates to the useable length of the blade, not the overall length of the peg.

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Grivel - Top Chisel

£8.99

A chrome-moly chisel-shaped "Kingpin" type peg in two sizes.

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Grivel - Top Pointy

£8.99

A chrome-moly pointy "Kingpin" type peg in two sizes. Pointy pitons are good for pockets.

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Leepers: were designed and made by American climber Ed Leeper. The term has become generic. They are like channels but with a double U shape, making them suitable for crack sizes in between Kingpins and Channels ( 8 - 15mm).

Grivel - Onda

£8.99

A chrome-moly "Leeper" type Z peg in four sizes.

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Channels: (AKA Corner or Angle Pegs). U or V-shaped pitons made from formed steel sheet for wide cracks (15mm - 25mm).

C.A.M.P. - Corner

£7.95

Chrome moly channels (aka angles). 096.04 is a particularly "fat" channel.

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Grivel - Rocket

£8.99

A chrome-moly channel peg in four sizes. Channel pitons are generally designed for cracks, however the 42mm is a rather specialised peg designed for finger pockets.

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Specialised: Highly specialised aid climbing only pegs.

Black Diamond - Pecker

£17.99

Modern birdbeak for hairy hairline aid placements. In 3 sizes.

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Black Diamond - R.U.R.P.

£12.99

Realised Ultimate Reality Piton for the ultimate in hairiest hairline aid placements.

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There is an interesting (not to say frightening!) article on in situ pegs on the BMC Website.