Quickdraws

A quickdraw (made up of two karabiners linked by a short nylon or Dyneema "extender") is the vital link between the climber's rope and the gear. Typically on long mountain routes, climbers will carry around a dozen quickdraws of varying lengths, though on short outcrops, less will be needed.

Quickdraws are generally available in several lengths, and also with a choice of solid gate or wiregate karabiners.

Lengths: The longer and floppier your quickdraw, the less likely twists and turns in the rope are to lift your gear out of position. So for trad climbing, a selection of quickdraws from 15 to 20cm long, plus one or two of 30cm for deeply recessed placements, is ideal. Consider too carrying 60cm (and even 120cm) slings equipped with two krabs apiece for use under roofs etc.

For sports climbs and walls though there is no chance of the bolt lifting out (at least one hopes not!), so short 10cm quickdraws are fine, and are easier to clip, especially if the lower krab is held firmly in place.

When using quickdraws, the idea is that the tightly held krab is the one that you clip the rope into so that should always be on the bottom end of the quickdraw. This is particularly important when bolt-clipping as falling off on bolts can put little nicks in the top krab. If this krab is then used at the bottom end it can put little nicks in the rope!

Solid (or Plain) Gate Karabiners come either with a Straight or a Bent Gate - the latter is designed for the bottom krab on a quickdraw where it makes in extremis rope clipping easier and distinguishes one end of the quickdraw from another.

More recently, Wiregates, though initially received with scepticism, have led to krabs that are lighter than any of their predecessors. They also do not freeze up in winter, and, because the gate has so little mass, are less prone to dangerous "gate open situations" than their solid-gated counterparts. As a karabiner is at its weakest when its gate is open, this is another important consideration. When wire gates first appeared, we worked out that the weight saving on the average reasonably comprehensive rack was equivalent to a jar of marmalade - that's worth considering as well!

Large Wiregate Quickdraws: Standard sized wiregates, ideal for virtually all climbing and particularly for technical mixed winter climbing where a lot of gear has to be placed and clipped whilst wearing gloves.

DMM - Alpha Trad Quickdraw

From

£17.95

A quickdraw made with a wiregate krab designed to excel in both Summer and Winter, from cragging to expeditions and everything in between. The beautifully hot forged ergonomic back combines with the clean nose wire gate to provide an easy clipping, fumble-free, anti-snag karabiner. Available in three lengths. Quickdraw weight from 77g.

 

Wild Country - Helium Quickdraw

From

£17.99

The ultimate (?!) in absolute lightweight largish wiregate quickdraws and very aptly named. Available in three lengths. Quickdraw weight from 72g.

 

Grivel - Gamma Quickdraw

£14.50

Distinctive wiregate krab quickdraw from a well known hardware manufacturer. Available in three lengths. Quickdraw weight from 76g.

 

Petzl - Ange Finesse Quickdraw (Large Karabiners)

From

£23.99

A light quickdraw using a 10mm Finess Dyneema extender (in a 17cm length) and Petzl's innovative large Ange karabiners with their "MonoFil Keylock system" (or a single strand wire gate to you and me). From 78g. Also available in a set of 5 in the 17cm length but with a Small Ange at the top and and a Large one at the bottom end.

 

Black Diamond - Hoodwire Quickdraw 12cm

£15.99

An innovative hot-forged HoodWire karabiner on top and lightweight hot-forged HotWire karabiner on bottom (which also has the hoodwire system fitted) ensures no snarl ups when using this quickdraw. 12cm length only at present. 83g.

 

Wild Country - Wild Wire Quickdraw

From

£11.99

Superb weightsaving over conventional krabs. Gates are less prone to freezing and less prone to opening in a fall too. Ideal for winter, alpine and expedition use. Available in three lengths. Quickdraw weight from 90g.

 

Small Wiregate Quickdraws: Slightly smaller than standard wiregates that offer a good compromise between weight saving and ease of handling for those carrying a large rack - eg British trad climbers.

DMM - Spectre2 Quickdraw

From

£15.50

Absolutely brilliant update of DMM's already ultralightweight wiregate Prowire quickdraw. Perfect for shaving grams off that alpine (or indeed any) rack. Available in three lengths. Quickdraw weight from 73g.

 

DMM - Needle Sports Prowire Quickdraw

Special offer!! From

£8.99

Absolutely brilliant ultralightweight and ultra-bargain-priced wiregate quickdraw featuring DMM's excellent Prowire Krabs and 10mm Dyneema tape sling (22kN). Quickdraw weight from 77g. An extra 5% off if you buy any 5!!

 

Micro Wiregate Quickdraws: Extra small krabs designed for situations where weight saving is more important than handling - eg high altitude mountaineering.

Moses 60cm Trad Quickdraw

Special offer!!

£14.99

The ultimate trad quickdraw! Superlight Moses karabiner in combination with light, high performance 10 mm Dyneema® webbing = maximum weight reduction. Ideal for Big Walls and alpine climbing.

 

C.A.M.P. - Nano 23 Quickdraw 10cm

£17.50

Of all the claims, this probably really is the lightest climbing krab on the market. Quickdraw weight 53g.

 

DMM - Phantom Quickdraw

From

£15.50

Amazingly light quickdraws ideal for high altitude climbing. If you just want lightwight quickdraws for climbing then the marginally heavier Spectre has a better shape for quick clipping. Quickdraw weight from 58g.

 

Petzl - Ange Finesse Quickdraw (Small Karabiners)

From

£20.99

Very light quickdraws using 10mm Finess Dyneema extenders (in 10cm and 17cm lengths) and Petzl's innovative small Ange karabiners with their "MonoFil Keylock system" (or a single strand wire gate to you and me). From 63g.

 

Hybrid Quickdraws: Quickdraws featuring a wiregate on one end and a solid gate on the other.

DMM - Euro Alpha Sport Wire Hybrid Quickdraw

From

£18.95

A quickdraw made with an Alpha wiregate krab at the rope clipping end and an Alpha solid straight gate at the bolt clipping end. A very popular combination in Europe where they presumably know a thing or two about sport climbing. Available in two lengths. Quickdraw weight from 92g.

 

DMM - USA Alpha Sport Wire Hybrid Quickdraw

From

£18.95

A quickdraw made with an Alpha solid bent gate krab at the rope clipping end and an Alpha wiregate at the bolt clipping end. Apparently the preferred option in the States. Available in two lengths.

 

Solid Gate Quickdraws: Standard sized krabs with solid, rather than wire gates. These used to be the norm up until the late '90s and, despite being heavier than their wiregate equivalents, are still preferred by some climbers. However, they are more prone to freezing up in winter.

DMM - Alpha Sport Quickdraw

From

£17.95

Probably the ultimate solid gate, sport climbing quickdraw. Available in three lengths. Quickdraw weight from 104g.

 

DMM - Mamba Double

£19.50

Possibly the sexiest quickdraw on the market? Quickdraw weight 118g.

 

DMM - Mamba Single

£11.99

The clipping end of a Mamba plus sling. Quickdraw weight 72g.