Ice Axes

Ice axes come in all shapes and sizes, and the range can seem very bewildering if you are a novice at winter mountaineering. However, basically (apart from a few oddball items) there are really only five types of axe: these are: Walking Axes, Alpine Axes, Leashed (almost straight-shafted) Axes (such as the DMM Fly), Leashless axes that can be used Leashed (such as the Petzl Quark) and totally Leashless Axes (such as the Petzl Nomic). There is much crossover between these ranges, and walking axes have been used on grade V ice climbs and leashless axes no doubt will have been used as walking axes, but broadly:-

Leashless Axes: Axes that are very wiggly and have lots of advantages if you are climbing high in the grades but quite a few disadvantages if you are not.
Leashless/Leashed Axes: The best choice for an all-round axe that will do everything from Continental icefalls, to Scottish VI mixed to grade I snow plods.
Leashed Axes: Simpler axes that many will now consider old fashioned, but still a good choice for lower grade Scottish routes.
Alpine Axes: These are walking axes with stonger more steeply curved picks, making them the ideal choice for the walker doing easier ice climbs and alpine routes.
Walking Axes: These are really only suitable for use as walking safety tools.

How to pick a climbing axe (if you'll forgive the pun) is one of the more difficult questions that faces the would be winter climber. What feels right to you is likely to feel very wrong to the next person. If you are unable to borrow axes to try before you buy, then the following may help.

Think of an axe as a weight on the end of a long stick. Hold the shaft right at its base (this is where you would normally hold an axe when winter climbing) and wave the tool in the air. If it feels heavy and unweildy or alternatively light and insubstantial then try a different model or try different shaft lengths of the same model. Basically what feels correct is a function of your own strength. Buy an axe that is too heavy and you will get pumped half-way up a pitch; buy one that is too light and you will curse as it bounces off hard ice! Needless to say it is rather difficult to do this over the internet........

'T' & 'B' Ratings: Ice axes are either 'T' or 'B' Rated, but nearly all climbing axes are 'T' rated. Confusingly though picks for ice axes are also either 'T' or 'B' rated. 'T' rated picks are heavier duty and are designed for Scottish winter and alpine mixed climbing, but are also suitable for icefalls, whilst 'B' rated picks have finer blades and are only suitable for pure water ice climbing. For UK use we would recommend the use of 'T' rated picks as 'B' rated picks may not be strong enough for mixed climbing.

Leashless Axes

Completely leashless axes designed for steep water ice and high standard mixed routes.

Leashless/Leashed Axes

Axes designed for use both leashless and leashed and suitable for Scottish and Alpine climbing at all grades.

Leashed Axes

Axes designed for Scottish mixed and similar technical Alpine climbing up to about grade V/D or thereabouts.

Alpine Axes

Axes designed primarily for alpine use but which also make very good walking axes. They are also a good crossover axe for anyone who wants a walking axe that they can use for climbing at the lower grades.