Ice Protection

When considering ice screws and other winter climbing protection, it should be emphasised that by far the best ice climbing protection gear is rock climbing protection gear. If you can place wires, nuts or slings, then do - they will be far stronger and quicker to place than most ice gear. Failing that, ice screws in good ice and pegs and only as a last resort, Warthogs, deadmen, snow stakes and hooks.

Having said that many hard ice routes such as Orion Direct (V) on Ben Nevis require a rack of at least six screws minimum, two for a belay, two or more for runners and two for the next belay. Also warthogs or ice-hooks are about the only thing to use for belaying on on some frozen turf areas such as the top of Ben Udlaidh.