BUCHAN WEST CRAG (NX 421 814 ) Alt 350m West Facing.
This small greywacke crag on Buchan Hill is the leftmost of many craglets that can be seen from the car park, though it becomes hidden on the approach. Although short, the main face is sheer and compact, and the routes are sustained. Blind cracks are common and a full range of cams with doubles around the Friend 1.5 size is advised. It gets plenty of afternoon sun, but there are a couple of seepage lines so it's best visited after dry weather. Belays are well back so two ropes are useful. The base of the crag is tranquil, the view is excellent, and the walk-in, though uphill and tussocky, is considerably shorter than most Galloway mountain crags.

From Bruce's Stone, take the signed walkers path north towards the Merrick. Where the path strikes uphill, at a sign advising walkers to take the higher path, cross the river and walk straight up the hillside until the crag can be seen in a hollow on the left. 30 minutes.

The descriptions below have been revised from the originals following a visit by the guidebook writer. This has resulted in a few less stars and some higher grades, but third opinions would be welcome.

1. Ball Ache 10m E3 5c (2007)
A poor route with poor gear.
Start under the small overhang towards the left side of the buttress. Climb the lower slab leftwards towards a blunt rib (crucial small wire way out left, hard and blind to place). From the rib make delicate moves up leftwards to the arête and follow it to the top – all rather scary.

2. Fiend's Folly 11m E1 5b * (2007)
A good line up the corner and crack above.
Climb the corner to a break and attain a standing position in it. Move up the crack to a good hold and make a precarious move to easier ground.

3. Stolen Dreams 12m E4 6a ** (2007)
A fine but bold climb up the blank wall to the right of the small overhang; technically sustained with a hard crux.
Climb easily to the lower blind crack (tiny high cam in face). Layback desperately to the break, then swing left to jugs. Make tricky moves into the upper crack and more tricky moves up it, past a jug on the left, to finish.

To the right the crag becomes dirtier and lower before rising up a little as an easy angled slab split by a rising heather break.

8. Pillar of the Sea 8m Hard Severe 4b (2010)
The clean leaning pillar just left of the subsidiary slab is followed to an easy finish.

9. Beach Comber 8m Difficult (2010)
Start at the lowest point of the heather break and follow juggy rock slightly rightwards to the top.

10. On the Beach 8m Severe 4a (2010)
Start 1m to the right of the lowest point of the heather break and climb the slab rightwards to the top.

11. Stranger on the Shore 8m Hard Severe 4b (2010)
The central section of the slab is rather bold.

12. Just Paddling 8m Very Difficult 4b (2010)
The right hand slab gives enjoyable climbing on good holds.

SOUND CLINT (NX 461 797) 475m W facing, (SMC Lowland Outcrops 2004, page 185)

The low (531m) picturesque hill of Craiglee is situated immediately north-east of Loch Dee. The quickest access is from Glen Trool via the Southern Upland Way to its high point where a vague very boggy path can be followed to the summit (1hr 45mins, 1hr 15mins using a mountain bike).

Sound Clint is a small wall of fine crystalline granite and is situated just south of the summit of Craiglee. Although the climbs are short (nowhere more than 13m high), the flat grassy base, good sustained climbing, superb views and excellent rock make it a worthwhile venue. A double rack of camming devices is recommended, and belays are fairly well back so it is worth setting one rope up as a belay rope and climbing on the other doubled. The routes need no real description, and anyway they are all in the guide now - except the latest three!

Craiglee - the left-hand side of the main crag.