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CRAMPONS | | |
|  Photo: Colin Wells on the first pitch of the classic Rjukanfossen (WI 4), Rjukan, Norway. | |
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Boot/Crampon Compatibility: Many manufacturers now rate their mountain boots for stiffness and the type of use they are designed for:
B0: Not really suitable for crampons.
B1: Flexible boots that are suitable for trekking and hill walking only. C1 crampons only.
B2: Semi-rigid boots designed for mountaineering and easier grade snow and mixed climbing, but not for steep ice and harder mixed climbs. C1 or C2 crampons.
B3: Fully rigid boots for mountaineering, ice and mixed climbing at all grades - but not always the most comfortable boots to walk in (though things are improving). C1, C2 or C3 crampons.
Crampons: These should be no stiffer than your boots or they may fall off.
C1: Flexible (eg Kahtoola, Grivel G10)
C2: Semi-rigid (eg Grivel Airtech, G12, G14)
C3: Rigid (eg Grivel Rambo, DMM Terminator)
Thus:
| Boot Rating | Crampons | | B1 | C1 | | B2 | C1-C2 | | B3 | C1-C2-C3 |
Binding System: In addition the binding system should be suitable for the boot. There are currently four main types of binding systems.
Strap On: (this includes plastic "basket" type systems such as Grivel's New Classic): Will fit all boots.
Semi Step In: (eg Grivel's Newmatic): Will only fit boots with a proper heel welt designed for semi step in crampons.
Full Step In: (eg Grivel's Crampomatic Binding): Will only fit boots with a proper heel and toe welt designed for full step in crampons.
GSB (Grivel-Scarpa Binding): Will only fit boots designed specifically for GSB Bindings.
Be aware that some boots have step in heel welts to make them look "techy" even if they're not. If in doubt a modern type Strap On crampon (eg New Classic binding) is best. | | |
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Competition Steep Ice Crampons : | | | | Competition crampons are designed for use in steep ice climbing competions and are also used on modern bolted Continental type mixed routes. We do not stock the models listed but can generally obtain them to order. | |
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Steep Ice Crampons : | | | Whilst anyone going cascade climbing in Europe or North America could get on fine with a standard 12 point mountaineering crampon, specialist rigid and semi-rigid steep ice crampons make things a lot easier. These crampons are also very good for Scottish mixed climbing, especially in mono-point mode, as a single vertical point will often fit nicely in a thin crack. However they are generally heavier than other crampons and not so comfy to use as a walking crampon (particularly the completely rigid models). They also used to have a well deserved reputation for balling up badly, but this problem has largely been solved by anti-balling plates.
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Mountaineering & Ice-Climbing Crampons : | | | Mountaineering crampons are generally 12 point, and are designed for use for everything from hillwalking to alpine climbing to Grade V Scottish ice and mixed (anyone regularly climbing harder than this would probably be better off with a semi rigid steep ice crampon - see above). They are built to withstand a massive amount of punishment and are generally more robust than walking crampons. They are also usually heavier.
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Winter Walking Crampons : | | | Walking crampons are generally 10 point, and are designed for use purely for winter hill walking - which is not to say they are no good on steep ground. They are generally lighter than 12 point mountaineering models, with shorter less pointy points. However there are no hard and fast rules about these things and 10 point walking crampons regularly get used in the Alps and the Himalayas on quite technical ground. We have even seen some-one lead a grade V icefall in them!
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Alloy Crampons : | | | | Alloy crampons are very light, but they are only suitable for ocasional users using them on pure ice and snow (eg ski-tourers), as the alloy will wear down quickly if used on rocky terrain. Definitely not suitable for winter walking in Britain! | |
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Spikes : | | | | Spikes are not crampons at all, and should not thought of as such. They are ideal for anyone working in a flattish icy environment, such a ski-lift operators. They can also be useful on iced up footpaths, but only where there is little or no incline. | |
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Crampon Accessories : | | |
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