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HANDS | | | There have probably been more new glove designs appeared in the last few years than any other item of equipment. And none of them are perfect! However though the one glove that does everything is some way off existing, some of these new gloves are excellent.
Walking: Whilst having a waterproof glove or mit in your rucksack is probably a good idea in case the weather gets really bad, wearing them when it is not actually raining is not. Like all waterproof clothing, however breathable, sweat build up will occur and this leads to chilling. Consider using instead, wind resistant gloves and save your waterproof ones for downpours. Climbing: The main secret to having warm hands when ice climbing is to have several pairs of gloves available.
Firstly for walking in to the crag something like a pair of windproof or thick liner gloves so that you do not sweat up your climbing gloves (which will then chill on you as soon as you slow down).
In general, for climbing, mitts are warmer than gloves: however if you have to take your mitt off to place/remove gear and it fills up with snow then your hands will get very cold so it is better to wear a glove that is dextrous enough so that you do not need to take it off. Either an insulated softshell type glove glove, or an insulated waterproof type should suit your purpose, but for long routes or multiple days two pairs are sensible - when one pair becomes wet, ditch them in your sack, pull out a nice cosy dry pair, and be the envy of your climbing partner!
Finally, for warming your hands up at the top of a route and walking out it is hard to beat Buffalo Mitts (very light to carry so the ideal spare mitt) or Dachsteins, and the latter make a good spare climbing mitt if you drop one of your gloves.
An alternative method that also works well is to wear a very thin glove and a big warm mitt. When you need to place gear slide the hand out of the mitt and leave the mitt captive in your axe leash. This is a bit more cumbersome but is probably a better method for anyone who suffers from cold hands.
The BMC site has a useful page on Frostbite. | |
| Different manufacturers size gloves differently. Here are:
Terra Nova Sizing. | | | Marmot Sizing. | | | Black Diamond Sizing (scroll down a long way - measurements are in inches). | |
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Liner & Lightweight Gloves : | | | Liner gloves are generally neither windproof nor water proof. They are mainly designed to wear as an extra layer of warmth under other mitts or gloves, but are also often used as a lightweight glove in their own right for warm conditions such as alpine glacier approaches. | |
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Wind Resistant Gloves & Mitts : | | | Wind resistant gloves and mitts are the ideal wear for most outdoor use on cold days when it is not actually raining. There are two basic types. Gloves and mitts that rely on the weave of the fabric (eg Buffalo, Dachsteins,Soft Shell) which are more breathable but less windproof, and those that rely on a membrane such as Gore Windstopper which are less breathable but more windproof. | |
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Waterproof Gloves & Mitts : | | | Waterproof gloves or mitts are essential for severe conditions or when climbing ice where the surface is wet.
There are many different types available and our choice veers between those that are the best value but still good, to those that are simply the best. All have been chosen for dexterity and good "feel" and we have become quite ruthless at dropping those from our range that do not meet these criteria. | |
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