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WINTER PROTECTION

 

Photo: Photo: Adrian Cammack battling with spindrift on the classic
Last Post (V), Creag Meagaidh, Scotland.

 

When considering ice screws and other winter climbing protection, it should be emphasised that by far the best ice climbing protection gear is rockclimbing protection gear. If you can place wires, nuts or slings then do - they will be far stronger and quicker to place than most ice gear. Failing that try pegs and only as a last resort, ice-screws, deadmen and hooks. Having said that many hard ice routes such as Orion Direct (V) on Ben Nevis require a rack of at least six screws, two for a belay, two runners and two for the next belay. Also warthogs or ice-hooks are about the only thing to use for belaying on on some frozen turf areas such as the top of Ben Udlaidh.

 





Ice Screws & Hooks :
 

Grivel - Grivel Ice Screw Sharpening Service

Grivel Ice Screw Sharpening Service We now offer an ice screw sharpening service using a Grivel 360 machine. This will work on most good brands of steel ice screw as long as they are similar in diameter to Grivel screws (eg Black Diamond, DMM, Simond, Petzl-Charlet etc) . Screws to be sharpened must have 4 frontal blades and not the three found in older screws. The diameter of screws to be sharpened must lie between 19 and 22 millimetres. NB It will not work on titanium screws, light alloy screws, or older screws that aren't of a standard modern size and design. Any such screws sent in will be posted back at the customer's expense. Black Diamond do not recommend using this machine to sharpen the latest generation (2007) of Express ice screws - this is not to say that it won't work, just that you probably won't get the original "bite" restored.

Please create your order, and post a copy with your icescrews to:
Needle Sports
56 Main Street
Keswick
CA12 5JS


Please protect the points and wrap the screws well. We would suggest sending them via a method that covers the cost of replacement if they get lost in transit as we cannot be responsible for items that don't arrive. The cost includes return postage.

This service is available to personal callers in our shop at £2/icescrew. In quiet periods this may be while you wait, but at busy times we reserve the right to ask you to collect them at a later date, or we can post them back to you at the above rates.

We regret that due to the high cost of return postage we do not offer this service to overseas customers at present. 


Quantity:  



Number of Ice Screws to be sharpened



Black Diamond - Turbo Express Ice Screw (2007 model)

Turbo Express Ice Screw (2007 model) This long established and excellent design has been improved by using a bigger wind in knob and a better tooth design so that it bites more quickly. In addittion the hanger now incoporates two clip in points for easier orgainisation on belays. . Razor sharp with a fold down handle making one handed placement a breeze.

NB BD advise not using a Grivel Icescrew sharpening machine to sharpen these screws as they say that you will not achieve as good a result as if you follow the instructions that come with the screw.

BD Ice Screws
length cm

gm

use

10115For ice-glazed slabs and other extreme placements
13134Ideal for "get it in quick" situations
16148Perfect for comfortable on lead placements
19168The best allrounder
22180Great for reassuring belays
 


Quantity:  



Length

Length
Stock
10cm £34.99
3
13cm £39.99
1
16cm £39.99
5+
19cm £44.99
5
22cm £44.99
2



Grivel - Helix Ice Screw

Helix Ice Screw These are the easiest and fastest screw to place on lead - unbeatable! A really great screw from Grivel at an excellent price. Razor sharp teeth and a T-bar handle makes placment a doddle as you can turn it and keep the pressure on more easily than with any other screw. Fairly easy to rack with a karabiner, even several at a time, though the handle does stick out a bit. The huge technological capacity and large quantities of production allow Grivel to offer a high quality product at an extremely competitive price.

Sizes:
12cm (red handle) for shallow placements.
15 cm (black handle) perfect for placing on solid icefalls on the lead. (Grivel may quote 16cm on packaging)
20 cm (yellow handle) ideal for belays and constructing Abalakov threads.
Weight: 155g for the 15cm.

Personally tested by Needle Sports staff at Rjukan and highly recommended! 


Price: £36.99(US$73.98)


Quantity:  



Length

Length
Stock
12cm £34.99
4
15cm £34.99
5+
20cm £34.99
5+



Grivel - 360 Ice Screw

360 Ice Screw Another excellent ice screw for steep water ice, very comparable in quality the the Black Diamond ones. On the plus side the folding handle is so movable that it will never catch on ice bulges etc. On the minus side (it's a very small minus) the handle is a bit bulky and you have to blow them out via the sharp end. Superb! 


Price: £49.99(US$99.98)


Quantity:  



Length

Length
Stock
12cm
2
16cm
2
20cm
3



DMM - Revolution Ice Screw

Revolution Ice Screw Very strong hot forged ergonomic handle is easy to turn with the palm of the hand. Precision CNC engineered teeth & thread give instant ‘bite’ and innner & outer finish to nickle plated tubes give ultra low friction. Generous well radiused and formed clipping hole will also accept a rope for emergency abseil.

Colour co-ordinated. Lengths 10cm/13cm/17cm/22cm






 


Quantity:  



Length

Length
Stock
10cm £36.99
1
13cm £39.99
0
17cm £39.99
2
22cm £42.99
2



"Mountain Technology" - Warthog Ice Screw

Warthog Ice Screw The only thing for frozen turf belays and rock-hard alpine black ice. Drive in, screw out. 23cm overall length (18cm effective length), 189g.

The Warthog Ice Screw was first made by Salewa but as far as we can ascertain, Mountain Technology were the only company that have produced them in recent years. With the demise of Mountain Technology, and their parent company HB, the Warthog, so beloved of British and Polish climbers but so little known elsewhere, looked like becoming an endangered species. However, Needle Sports has located the engineering firm that originally made Warthogs for Mountain Technology and are very pleased to be able to offer them once again. 


Price: £19.99(US$39.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 5+



DMM - Bulldog Ice Hook

Bulldog Ice Hook Ice hooks are probably the least reliable ice protection short of a tied off sock, but they do have their uses and those uses are: quick hook placement in hollow ice, shallow turf ledges and ice smears too thin for a screw. They are also great for wacking into iced up cracks. The DMM Bulldog is every bit as good as its competition and cheaper than most. It has a double Dyneema loop so you can shorten it for carrying and extend it when placed.

174g. 


Price: £19.99(US$39.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 3



Black Diamond - Spectre Ice Hook

Spectre Ice Hook As per the DMM Bulldog (see above) with exactly the same warnings about their value as protection etc.

Despite the photo, this hook does actually have a double extender as per the Bulldog. 


Price: £19.99(US$39.98)

Stock 3


Quantity:  

 




Deadmen & Snow Stakes :
 

DMM - Red Deadman

Red Deadman The safest quick snow belay is a properly buried deadman, and this is one of the nicest designs on the market.

Anodised red aluminium. 350g approx.

A deadman should be placed at 40 degrees to the snow slope with the top of the deadman leaning away from the belayer. To find 40 degrees, use the edge of the square end of the deadman to find 90 degrees and bisect this to 45 degees with your iceaxe, then shave 5 degrees off this angle by sight. Full instructions are on the DMM Website 


Price: £29.99(US$59.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 0



Snowstakes - a warning! Before rushing into buying snowstakes, it is worth realising that they do not provide the strongest belays in the world. Snow Anchors, by Don Bogie, makes for sobering, if rather complicated, reading - if you can't cope with all the equations and graphs, it is worth skipping to the conclusions.
 

MSR - Coyote Snow Stake

Coyote Snow Stake Also known as "Pickets". Much used by Americans for belays in alpine/himalayan situations but of dubious holding power compared with a Deadman. Also handy for anchoring tents to etc. Extruded from aircraft-grade heat-treated aluminum, which minimizes weight and maximizes strength. Modified T-shaped cross-section puts more metal where strength and bending resistance are needed most. The result is a 20% increase in holding power over other snow stakes because the design exposes more surface area to the snow. Attachment points are at 3-inch/7.6cm intervals along the neutral axis.

Two lengths are available:-
2 foot (24", 61cm), 13oz (369g).
3 foot (36", 91cm), 18.5oz (525g).


NB Snow Stakes make great tent anchors, but much cheaper are Snow Pegs.  


Quantity:  



Length

Length
Stock
2 Foot £24.99
2
3 Foot £29.99
2





Racking Systems, Abalakov Threaders & Accessories :
 

Grivel - Black Hole Ice Screw Protector (pack of 5)

Black Hole Ice Screw Protector (pack of 5) Clever ice screw protectors from Grivel that not only keep your screws sharp, but also allow air to circulate so helping to prevent them going rusty. In addition each protector clicks into place on the handle of a Grivel Helix or 360 ice screw to make sure that you don't lose it and also makes the handle bigger and easier to grasp with gloved hands.

Sold as a pack of 5 - ice screws not included!. 


Price: £6.50(US$13.00)


Quantity:  

Stock 4



Grivel - Expresso Tight (per pair)

Expresso Tight (per pair) Brilliant method of storing your ice-screws. Attaches to harness, rucksack or on a separate belt. Screws are held firmly but are easily and quickly pulled out to place. No unclipping needed! Protects sharp teeth from getting blunted. Also protects your overtrousers from damage. Price is per pair. (Suitable for Black Diamond, Grivel and other screws of similar diameter only.) NB In 2001, Grivel changed this product slightly with the result that ice screws were not so firmly held. This is a new "tight" version that works much better.
 


Price: £14.99(US$29.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 5+



Grivel - Pan Pipes

Pan Pipes Five Expressos on a firm belt with a shoulder strap.

A great piece of kit for big ice routes, especially as extra Expressos can be added 


Price: £44.99(US$89.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 1



Charlet Moser - Iceflute

Iceflute Petzl Charlet's version of the Pan Pipes is rather clever. Five hard plastic tubes can be separated or joined together by flexible plastic straps. Each ice-screw is held firmly in place by a strong elastic ring but can still be removed and inserted one handed. Each tube also has a hook enabling it to be fastened to a webbing belt, bandolier, or harness with purpose-made attachment points such as Petzl's new Adjama. 155g. 


Price: £20.99(US$41.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 5



Black Diamond - Ice Screw Up

Ice Screw Up A roll up, rather like one of those ones you had full of scalpels and tweezers in biology lessons, but for icescrews. Holds up to six ice screws and keeps their threads and teeth sharp. 125g

Ice screws not included, but available above!
 


Price: £9.99(US$19.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 3



Black Diamond - Ice Clipper

Ice Clipper Plastic backed wire gate krab with a rubber grippy strap thingie (not shown) for attaching it to your harness - this method of attachment means that it will fit virtually all harnesses. 30g, 110mm long. 


Price: £3.99(US$7.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 2



Petzl - Caritool

Caritool Simple dead light (plastic with wiregate) attachment for racking pegs or icescrews on your harness, enabling single-handed removal. 0.05kN, 28g, 110mm long.

Designed specifically for the 2004 onward range of Petzl harnesses but should fit many others and most alpine/winter type harnesses (it depends on the thickness of the padding). 


Price: £3.99(US$7.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 5+



Petzl - Caritool Large

Caritool Large A much bigger version of the Caritool enabling you to carry even more gear! However, certain ice-screws and pegs may not fit well due to their eye-holes being too small (eg the latest Black Diamond ice screws which will fit onto the krab bit but not over the gate). 0.15kN, 67g, 140mm long.

Designed specifically for the 2004 onward range of Petzl harnesses but should fit many others and most alpine/winter type harnesses (it depends on the thickness of the padding).

Click the image to see how it compares in size with the standard Caritool. 


Price: £7.99(US$15.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 5+



Charlet Moser - Multi-Hook

Multi-Hook A threader for Abalakov Threads.  


Price: £7.50(US$15.00)


Quantity:  

Stock 5+



Grivel - Candela

Candela Another cunning Grivel product and another threader for Abalakov Threads. Cleverly made to be stored down the centre of the 22cm icescrew that you need to make the thread holes with, but it will also clip on to your harness gear-loop. As well as a retracting hook, it also features a protected saw blade for removing old tat with. 27g.  


Price: £11.99(US$23.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 5+



Petzl - Spatha Knife Small (orange) NB - Credit Card payment only!

Spatha Knife Small (orange) NB - Credit Card payment only! Handy lightweight very sharp climber's knife designed to be hung with a karabiner on the back of your harness for use in those emergency situations where literary fame (for your partner!) beckons (98mm long/60mm serrated blade). Ideal for cutting tape for Abalaokov threads. 50g. 


Price: £12.99(US$25.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 5+



Petzl - Spatha Knife Large (blue) NB - Credit Card payment only!

Spatha Knife Large (blue) NB - Credit Card payment only! A large version (120mm long/80mm non-serrated blade). 70g. 


Price: £12.99(US$25.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 4



Black Diamond - Oval Wiregate

Oval Wiregate Not much use as a standard climbing krab (for a start you can't tell which end is which very easily), but a good lightweight oval for pulley use, and the best krab we have seen for icefall activists to rack a Petzl Spartha knife and an Abalakov threader on, as the knife hangs downwards properly and the krab is large and easily opened whilst wearing gloves, plus the gate doesn't freeze up.

Weight 62g. Strength Closed 23kn, Open 7kn, Cross-loaded 7kn.  


Price: £5.50(US$11.00)


Quantity:  

Stock 5+



Charlet Moser - Turbine

Turbine Gizmo for rapid insertion of just about any tubular screw-in ice screw. Useful if your icescrews don't have wind in handles perhaps. 


Price: £21.99(US$43.98)


Quantity:  

Stock 2





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