INSTRUCTIONAL BOOKS

A very handy explanation of why it always rains on your days off, recommended by the MLTB. By Malcolm Thomas. Paperback with colour illustrations. 93 pages.

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A book that starts with the basics! ie first chapter is headed "What is a Map?" and the last is headed "If Lost"!! Perfect for anyone getting into the countryside for the first time. By Julien Tippett. Paperback, well illustrated with lots of colour, 121pages.

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The official handbook of the Mountain Leader and Walking Group Leader schemes. A well illustrated comprehensive guide. By Steve Long. 202 pages, full colour, card cover.

Vol 2 (see below) covers rock climbing, and Vol 3 covers ice and alpine climbing.

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Subtitled "Essential Skills for Britain's Classic Routes", this is a superbly illustrated manual for walkers who wish to learn sufficient skills and ropework to tackle scrambles and the easy classic rock climbs. In addition to covering equipment and techniques, over a quarter of the book is devoted to describing some classic British mountain scrambles such as the North Ridge of Tryfan, Broad Stand, Anaoch Eagach, and Tower Ridge. By Terry Adby and Stuart Johnston. Well illustrated throughout in colour, card cover, 251 pages.

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Sixth edition of this now classic work. Includes all the expected stuff plus a chapter on GPS use. Back and white illustrations and some colour illustrations. Peter Cliff, Card cover, 62 pages.

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Navigation skills with particular emphasis on those needed for fell-running and mountain marathon events. Paperback with black and white illustrations. Martin Bagness, 54p.

Sorry - out of print.  

Third Edition of the official handbook of the Mountain Leadership Training Boards of the UK (aka "Langmuir"). This book covers the skills needed for successful leadership of groups in the hills in summer and winter up to the level of advanced scrambling. Paperback with black and white illustrations. Eric Langmuir, 472p.

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Association of Mountaineering Instructors approved, instruction manual that picks up more or less where Langmuir's Mountaincraft and Leadership leaves off. Aimed at anyone intending to take their MIA or MIC qualifications, or indeed anyone interested in the more technical aspects of climbing and mountaineering. Covers Mountain Leadership Skills, Technical Skills for Summer and Winter Climbing, Avalanche Awareness and Snowcraft Skills. Well illustrated and now in a soft-back cover. Pete Hill & Stuart Johnson, 160p.

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Pocket sized handbook containing loads of ideas for instructional games and activities for outdoor ed instructors to keep their young charges occupied with. Colour illustrations throughout. By Derek Burdett. Card cover, 117 pages.

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"Mastering the Skills of GPS Navigation and Digital Mapping. GPS and digital mapping is the new map and compass and Getting to Grips with GPS will set you on your way to mastering this new technology. Expert tips and learning exercises will help consolidate your learning as you increase your understanding. Using step-by-step screen shots as a reference tool you will find quick solutions to: Setting up your GPS; marking a waypoint; saving a tracklog; navigating a route and using your GPS abroad - the authors are market leaders in providing GPS training and they have brought their wealth of experience to the printed page."

Well that's the blurb from the publishers. In truth it looks clear and well laid out with lots of colour photos - and about as rivetting as a computer manual... though no doubt very useful. 

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Or what to do with it when you have done! Sales of over a million and a second edition show what a snappy title can do for you. Paperback with (tasteful) black and white illustrations. Kathleen Meyer, 107 pages.

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An expedition planning guide, useful for trekkers and mountaineers alike, and beautifully written and illustrated with some superb colour photographs. By Paul Deegan. Card cover, 211 pages.

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Subtitled "Learning to Climb on Indoor Walls", this book covers that awkward transition from indoor wall climbing and bouldering (lots of tips on technique) to doing the same outdoors. Via Ferrata skills are also covered but (NB) there is no chapter on leading on natural gear. By David Atchison-Jones. Superbly colourful Jingo-Wobbly style, soft cover, 288 pages.

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Massively comprehensive guide to rock, ice and alpine climbing endorsed by the BMC. Hardback with black and white and colour illustrations. Allen Fyffe, Iain Peter, 389p.

Sorry, now out of print.

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A massive tome - the American equivalent of The Handbook of Climbing. Paperback with black and white illustrations. Edited by Steven M Cox and Kris Fulsaas. 575 pages.

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Large format comprehensive-looking volume (well at least as comprehensive as you can be in 160 pages) covering all aspects of rock climbing, plus aid cling, snow and ice climbing, alpine and expedition mountaineering, and with extra sections on basic navigation and first aid. By Garth Hattingh. Hardback with great colour photos and diagrams, 160 pages. Especially good value as it has been remaindered at a bargain price!

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Nice colourful book that concentrates on the how to of climbing with much on fitness, techniques and even ethics and sufficient information on equipment and protecting routes too. Paperback with great colour photos and diagrams. Malcolm Creasy, Nigel Shepherd, Neil Gresham, 128 pages.

Sorry - out of print.

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A large format version of "Rock Climbing" (see above). Identical in all but the cover - so don't order both. A nice colourful book that concentrates on the how to of climbing with much on fitness, techniques and even ethics and sufficient information on equipment and protecting routes too. Paperback with great colour photos and diagrams. Malcolm Creasy, Nigel Shepherd, Neil Gresham, 128p. Especially good value as it has been remaindered at a bargain price!

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An expanded large format version of the Beginner's Guide to Rock Climbing/An Introduction to Rock Climbing (see above). A nice colourful book that concentrates on the how to of climbing with much on fitness, techniques and even ethics and sufficient information on equipment and protecting routes too. In addition to the sections on "A Modern View", "Getting Started" and "Ropework" in the aforementioned volumes, there are also chapters on"Into the Hills", "Emergency Ropework", "Advanced Training", and "Rock Around the World". Malcolm Creasy, Nigel Shepherd, Nick Banks, Neil Gresham, and Ray Wood. Paperback with great colour photos and diagrams, 256 pages. Especially good value as it has been remaindered at a bargain price!

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A step by step guide to the basics of climbing from clothing to cams to crimps. Well illustrated in colour with some excellent photographs by Ray Wood. Written by Malcolm Creasy, a British Mountain Guide with over 30 years experience. Card cover, 96 pages. Good value!
(Previously published as "Rock Climbing Essentials")

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The official handbook of the Mountain Leader and Walking Group Leader schemes. A beautifully illustrated, thoroughly comprehensive guide, largely aimed at instructors, but a good instruction manual for any climber too. By Libby Peter. 226 pages, full colour, card cover.

Vol 1 (see above) covers hill walking, and Vol 3 (see below) winter walking and climbing.

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A super little handbook to all you need to know about rock climbing in the UK, very well illustrated with lots of colour photographs using very up to date equipment. This is a clearly written, well illustrated and accurate manual.

By Pete Hill (MIC).

Colour throughout, card cover, 188 pages.


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A useful little booklet though it does not cover everything - there is no description of the overhand knot for abseiling for instance - but most of the rest is there. Craig Luebben, Card cover 40 pages.

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A combination of "A Manual of Modern Rope Techniques (1990)" and "Further Modern Rope Techniques (1998)", both by British Mountain Guide, Nigel Shepherd, and both updated for this new edition. Colour photos, card cover, 358 pages.

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Second edition of this highly detailed examination of nuts, cams, bolts, slings and other climbing gear and how to use it all (with an American slant, ie anchor = belay or running belay in UK parlance). This new volume combines the old "Climbing Anchors" and "More Climbing Anchors" and the black and white photos and diagrams are a lot better. By John Long & Bob Gaines. Card cover, 225 pages.

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A pocket version of the "Climbing Anchors" instruction manual containing the essentials from that work but without the detailed explanations. It is designed to be used on the crag, with the larger volume to be consulted back at base. By John Long & Bob Gaines. Card cover, 118 pages.

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Fourth edition of this American instruction manual that covers the techniques and equipment of climbing. Although some of the terminology is rather trans-atlantic, a useful book none-the-less. Paperback with black and white illustrations. John Long, 223 pages.

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Excellent American instruction book that manges to combine explanation of fairly basic techniques with some very advnced stuff. Paperback with black and white illustrations. John Long and Crag Luebben. 224 pages.

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Super instructional manual for improving your performance and getting the most out of your climbing. Paperback with black and white illustrations and some great cartoons. Dale Goddard, Udo Neumann, 194 pages

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Good looking and competently written guide to sport climbing techniques and training with oodles of colour photos. By Adrian Berry and Steve McClure. Card cover, 192 pages.

NB This manual does not cover traditional climbing, gear placement etc.

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Good looking and competently written guide to trad (ie placing your own gear) climbing techniques with oodles of colour photos. By Adrian Berry and John Arran. Card cover, 288 pages.

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Partner been outcranking you? Tired of flailing on the same old problems? Then ... buy Better Bouldering! At least that's what it says on the cover. Paperback with black and white illustrations. By John Sherman (America's most noted and notorious bouldering guru - it says that on the cover too), 96 pages.

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All the skills, equipment and anecdotes you need to aid your way up El Cap and beyond. Written by two masters of the technique. Paperback with black and white illustrations. John Long, John Middendorf, 133 pages.

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Big wall aid techniques by Jared Ogden, a master in the field. Colour illustrations, card cover, 205 pages.

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The official handbook of the Mountain Leader and Walking Group Leader schemes. A beautifully illustrated, thoroughly comprehensive guide to mountain walking and winter climbing, as much aimed at instructors as climbers. By Andy Cunningham and Allen Fyfe. Full colour, card cover, 253 pages.

Vol 1 covers hill walking and Vol 2 rock climbing (see above).

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American instruction manual that covers the techniques and equipment of ice-climbing with the empasis on water ice. Although some of the terminology is rather trans-atlantic, a useful book none-the-less. Paperback with black and white illustrations. Craig Luebben, 186pages

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Techniques and equipment of ice-climbing from the basics through to the impossible. Paperback with excellent colour and black and white illustrations. American flavoured. Jeff Lowe, 255 pages.

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Comprehensive round up of all things icy from the absolute basics to modern mixed figure fours and leashless tools. Very American and thus bears little relation to anything you might find or do in Scotland. By Will Gadd. Cardback with excellent colour illustrations, 236 pages.

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The title says it all. Paperback with black and white illustrations, Andy Selters, 143 pages.

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Excellent looking manual on glacier travel & crevasse rescue illustrated with numerous superb black and white cartoons which, although humorous, illustrate the points being made very clearly. By Andy Tyson, with artwork by Mike Clelland. Card cover, 140 pages.

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Sorry, unavailable at present. 

A very useful introduction (despite the strange-looking overhand knot illustration on page 2!), written by one of the recognised authorities in the field who has been teaching Conville Trust courses for many years. Paperback with colour and black and white illustrations, Peter Cliff, 98 pages.

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Bumper book of alpine techniques, covering just about everything that you can thing of, albeit with a trans-Atlantic slant. By Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley. Card cover, black and white illustrations, 327 pages.

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Sub-titled "Climbing, Light, High & Fast". The techniques, minimalist equipment and frame of mind required to be the sort of climber for whom the North Face of the Eiger is an easy day out. Paperback with colour illustrations. Mark Twight, James Martin, 238 pages.

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Third edition of this handy pocket book of avalanche know how. Covers determining avalanche hazards, travelling in avalanche terrain, what to do if you are caught in an avalanche, search and rescue techniques, and much more. By Sue Ferguson and Edward La Chapelle. Card cover, 141 pages.

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Second edition of the classic work on Scottish avalanches. Paperback with black and white and colour illustrations, Bob Barton & Blyth Wright, 154 pages.

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A small pocket guide to predicting avalanches with many illustrations of avalanches and the damage, injury and death they have caused, together with clear instructions on how to reduce the risk in avalanche prone areas, what to do if caught in an avalnche and how to search for buried victims. Includes a Nivo Test Observation Card for predicting your chances!

By Robert Bognesi and translated by Blyth Wright who has run the SAIS since 1989.

Colour throughout, plastic cover, 111 pages.


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A small clearly written pocket guide to snow structure and how to conduct shear tests etc. Includes a plastic Snow Crystal Observation Card for analysing snow crystals. A nicely produced little book but it could easily have been combined with Avalanche! (above) in our opinion.

By Robert Bognesi and translated by Blyth Wright who has run the SAIS since 1989.

Colour throughout, plastic cover, 63 pages.

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A handy pocket-sized reference booklet that explains what High Altitude Illness is and how to deal with it. Paperback. Stephen Bezruchka. Card cover, 156 pages.

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Simple and clear - a very handy reference booklet. Paperback. Stephen Bezruchka. Card cover, 127 pages.

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Subtitled "& Other Wilderness Activities". Should be in every expedition medical kit, though this is quite a large volume so one of the pocket books above may be preferable if weight is at a premium. 5th Edition. Paperback. Dr James Wilkerson, 366 pages.

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Subtitled "How to Understand the Injuries and Overuse Syndroms of Rock Climbing". Serious textbook of climbing-related injuries, their causes and treatment. Complete with numerous (fortunately black & white) photos of injuries, and a few nice climbing ones in colour. By Dr Thomas Hochholzer and Dr Volker Shoeffl, and edited by Sam Lightner. Card cover, 229 pages.

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The complete paddlesport reference book. Edited by Franco Ferrero. Very flimsy card cover, 351 pages.

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A manual of coaching techniques advice and guidelines for the canoe and kayak coach.. Edited by Franco Ferrero. Card cover, 384 pages.

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Sport climbing instructional DVD hosted by world-class professional climber, Chris Lindner and directed by award-winning climbing film maker Paul Dusatko.

SC 101 includes: Climbing Vocabulary, Proper Equipment and Set-Up, The Basics of Lead Climbing, Figure 8 Tie-In Knot, Clipping, Falling, Cleaning Quickdraws, Belaying, Onsight and Redpoint Tips.

Also: Yoga For Climbers, Climbing Dictionary, and Spanish, French, & German Subtitles.

Click for a Trailer.

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We are very grateful to Colin Wells of Climb Magazine for allowing us to use his excellent review that appeared in issue 26:

The title of this excellent instructional DVD is a partial misnomer; in addition to self-rescue techniques the presenters also take the viewer through a complete beginner's guide to ropework and basic equipment - it's amazing how much has been crammed in. Clearly and attractively filmed in locations around Snowdonia, Gogarth, Malham and the Peak, the narrative belts along at a brisk pace. Sanders' and Long's ropeside manner is exemplary. There's no pretentious soliloquising or patronising dumbing down - the presenters assume you're adult enough to know what you're doing and deliver the information with a no-nonsense, down-to-earth confidence. Despite the best part of three decades of teaching this kind of stuff to groups at places like Plas-y-Brenin there's little sign of ennui in their delivery, in fact they look and sound like they're almost on the verge of enjoying themselves, and you feel a smile is playing about their faces the whole time threatening to break out at any moment. The result is that the DVD is inexplicably entertaining as well as informative. The overall effect is like being in the company of a pair of avuncular climbing geezers who are happy to dispense pearls of wisdom from their vast experience, but who aren't out to force you to listen. You ought to though, because this could save your life - or at the very least save you a bit of embarrassment.

Self Rescue takes full advantage of the utility of the DVD format over print media when explaining ropetricks such as bypassing a knot on abseil or forming a kleimheist prussic. Explaining such knotty origami in a dynamic three-dimensional form is so much more rapidly comprehensible to most normal people. This is not, however, necessarily an axiomatic advantage of film, as other recent slow and boring instructional DVDs have proved. By way of contrast, Self Rescue for Climbers is a professional job packed with common practical advice for any climber. Also includes a couple of bonus features, including a geekily fascinating day spent at DMM's Llanberis test-rig stretching krabs, slings and rocks to destruction just for the hell of it. Highly recommended.

By Olly Sanders and Steve Long, 150mins.

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All the basic skills needed for rock-climb - as described by the UIAA

For a preview have a look at the Trailer.

100 mins.

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Technique & Training: 100 minutes of tips and techniques for reasonaly experienced rock climbers and boulderers of all grades between F5 and F7c.

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Skills and Tactics for Sport & Trad: 70 minutes of tips and techniques for reasonaly experienced rock climbers and boulderers of all grades between F5 and F7c.

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Skills and techniques for the winter mountains. Follow a group of three winter mountaineers and two winter climbers on a day out in the Scottish mounta