|
|
PITONS | | |
|  Photo: Big Jim Roberts pegging his way out over the final roof of The Scoop (A3), Sron Ulladale, Harris, Scotland. The photo was (rather worryingly) taken about 10.30 at night with a pitch still to go - hence the rather enhanced look. The free version of this route (E6) avoids this roof. |
| |
| | Pitons (or pegs as they are often known in Britain) are, since the advent of modern wires, nuts and camming devices, seldom used in the UK for summer rock-climbing any more. However they are an important tool in winter and alpine climbing where narrow cracks may be choked with ice and other protection hard to find. They are also much used in Big Wall Aid Climbing. There are four major types of Piton:
Knifeblades are thin blade pegs for fine cracks (1 - 3mm) and are the most useful and lightest to carry.
Kingpins (aka Lost Arrows) are fat blades made for wider cracks (4 - 7mm). They are rather heavy.
Channels (aka Angles) are U or V-shaped pitons made from formed steel sheet for wide cracks (15mm - 25mm).
Leepers were designed and made by American climber Ed Leeper. The term has become generic. They are like channels but with a double U shape, making them suitable for crack sizes in between Kingpins and Channels ( 8 - 15mm). Pitons are either Chrome-Molybdenum Hard Steel (made for repeated use) or Mild Steel that deforms to the rock (made for permanent placements). All the pegs we sell are Hard Steel. Knowing what pitons (and indeed what gear in general) to carry for winter climbing is something that comes with experience. The requirements vary from area to area as well. For instance in the Cairngorms, Friends may be found more useful than pitons, whereas on Ben Nevis, it is well worth carrying a selection of pitons.
The trick is to get the right balance between weight and safety. Here is a typical Ben Nevis selection:
Knifeblade Long x1
Knifeblade Medium x 1
Channel Medium x 1
Kingpin x 1
This last item is quite heavy and many would not carry one but they are useful in iced up cracks that are slightly wider than blade size.
Additional pegs that might be consider are a larger Channel, and a Leeper/Onda. | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Peg Hammers: | | |
|
|
Skyhooks: | | |
Skyhooks are designed for direct aid on flakes and edges that will not take any other sort of protection. Many climbers carry a skyhook to assist retreat and even for use as a runner in sharp edged pockets, though such a placement would be marginal to say the least! | |
|
|
|
|
|
Peg Racks: | | |
|
|
|
|
| | Prices: Please note that all our prices are in UK Pounds Sterling (£) including VAT (see below). An approximate price in US$ is shown in brackets. To work out a more accurate price please click for a Currency Convertor.BMC Members: We regret that we cannot offer a free UK postage service to all and do BMC discount as well. BMC discount is available only to personal callers at the shop. VAT: Included in the price shown is European sales tax (VAT) of 17.5% on most items, which non-European Economic Community (EEC) buyers should not have to pay. Click for our notes for Overseas Buyers. Stock Levels: Stock Levels are now indicated for many items - please click to see why these will not always be 100% accurate and why a zero stock level does not mean you can't order - Stock Levels more.... *Postage: is FREE for most UK Orders (some particularly heavy low profit items are excepted - this is clearly indicated for those items - they are mainly books). Overseas buyers please follow the ordering process through the first two stages for an estimate of postage costs - you can then cancel the order if you wish. NB Parcels will almost certainly have to be signed for, and are likely to be sent by a Carrier who may not have a depot near where you live. It is worth including a trusted neighbour's details, or having your goods sent to your work address. Please click for more details on UK Deliveries and Overseas Deliveries. Sizing: All our boot sizes are in UK (7, 7.5, 8 etc) or European Sizes (41, 42, 43 etc). Click for a Boot Size Conversion Chart. For assistance with UK women's clothing sizes, click for a Clothing Size Conversion Chart. Web order not worked? Please email info@needlesports.com or ring 017687 72227. Please rest assured - we will not use your email address for any reason other than to contact you regarding the order you have placed, and we will never pass on your email address to a third party.
This means that if you wish to receive notification of special offers and other news, then you need to opt in and Register. Also, your credit card details are only obtained on a secure server - this is notified by the golden padlock symbol that appears when you reach this stage of your order. |
|
