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WIDE CRACK PROTECTION - NUTS & HEXES

 

Photo: North-West Arete (MVS), Gimmer Crag, The Lake District, England.

 

Wide crack protection means either carrying large nuts (chocks) or camming devices, or more likely both. Whilst cams have many advantages over nuts, nuts do in fact have some advantages over cams: they are lighter and considerably cheaper, they don't walk into cracks, and they will protect a crack that gets wider inside where a cam will be next to useless.

For most climbers protecting wide cracks without using camming devices meant until recently carrying a rack of Hexcentrics, or "Hexes", the offset chocks designed many years ago by Yvonne Chouinard. These are now only available on wire, and Wild Country Rockcentrics seem to have become the large nut of choice.

 



Wild Country - Anodised Rockcentric on Dyneema

Anodised Rockcentric on Dyneema Rockcentrics are an excellent design, based on the old Chouinard Hexcentric, but much lighter and with a different, more curved, profile. However the principles of their use are the same. The clever uneven sides mean that there are three sizes of placement each nut will fit, and they can also be cammed in horizontal breaks. Sizing is different from Hexes, with a size 7 being similar to a Hex 8.

Sizes 3, 4 and 5 are smaller nuts, covering a similar range to the largest wires. Sizes 6, 7 and 8 are medium nuts and are all extremely useful in the Lake District. Size 9 is a good, light alternative to a big cam for granite cracks and gritsone edges.

WC Rockcentrics on Dyneema
numbercolour

mm

kN

gm

3Gold 31 x 24 x 251434
4Silver 36 x 28 x 30 1443
5Green 41 x 33 x 35 1454
6Red 48 x 38 x 41 1469
7Gold 55 x 45 x 481491
8Blue 64 x 52 x 55 14118
9Violet 73 x 61 x 64 14156
 



Quantity:  



Size

Size
Stock
3 £10.99
5+
4 £10.99
5+
5 £12.99
5+
6 £12.99
5+
7 £12.99
5
8 £13.99
5+
9 £13.99
5+

 


Wild Country - Set of Rockcentrics sizes 3 - 9 on Dyneema

Set of Rockcentrics sizes 3 - 9 on DyneemaFull set from size 3 to size 9.
 


Price: £77.99 [US$145.37] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  

Stock 5+



Black Diamond - Black Diamond Hexes on Wire Sizes 1 - 11

Black Diamond Hexes on Wire Sizes 1 - 11 Hexcentrics, orignally designed by Yvon Chouinard, are one of the most successful designs of large nuts (chocks) ever produced.

The clever uneven sides mean that there are three sizes of placement each nut will fit, and they can also be cammed in horizontal breaks.

Although large nuts like these have been superceded to a certain extent by camming devices, there are nevertheless many instances where camming devices are not as secure as a well placed "Hex", and every climber should know how to use them.

Black Diamond Hexes are only available on floppy wire (for better camming placements). They are colour coded for ease of recognition.

BD Hexcentrics on Wire
numbercolour

mm

kN

gm

1Red19 x 12619
2Grey21 x 14622
3Gold24 x 171028
4Red28 x 211051
5Grey33 x 241053
6Gold39 x 271064
7Red46 x 331086
8Grey54 x 391094
9Gold64 x 4710124
10Red75 x 5610164
11Grey89 x 6510206
 


Quantity:  

Stock 0



Size

Size
Stock
1 £7.99
2
2 £7.99
3
3 £7.99
1
4 £8.99
1
5 £8.99
1
6 £8.99
1
7 £8.99
1
8 £8.99
1
9 £9.99
2
10 £9.99
2
11 £9.99
2



Black Diamond - Black Diamond Hexes on Wire Set 4-10

Black Diamond Hexes on Wire Set  4-10 Buy a part-set (sizes 4-10) and save a bit (and get a free oval wiregate krab which will annoy you because you can't tell which end is which - it is however the best thing to keep a Petzl Spatha knife and Abalakov threader on if you are into icefall climbing). 


Price: £59.99 [US$111.82] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  

Stock 0



Camp - Carvex on Dyneema

Carvex on Dyneema Camp's replacement for the long lived Hexcentric looks to be as close to a Wild Country Rockcentric as it could be without danger of being sued for breach of copyright! Sizing is a bit different though, Carvex being slightly smaller than Rockcentrics, and Carvexes go to much larger sizes in the 10 and 11.

Camp Carvex on Dyneema
numbercolour

mm

kN

gm

4Gold29 x 221024
5Red34 x 261732
6Silver40 x 31 1742
7Blue48 x 381758
8Orange56 x 44 1786
9Purple66 x 54 17124
10Bronze79 x 64 17165
11Silver91 x 7517226
 


Quantity:  


Camp Carvex on Dyneema Tape

Size

Size
Stock
4 £9.99
2
5 £9.99
2
6 £10.99
3
7 £11.99
3
8 £11.99
3
9 £14.99
3
10 £14.99
3
11 £14.99
3



Camp - Carvex on Wire

Carvex on Wire As per the dyneema ones, but available in much smaller sizes too.












Camp Carvex on Wire
numbercolour

mm

kN

gm

1Black18 x 141025
2Green21 x 151028
3Blue24 x 181030
4Gold29 x 221035
5Red34 x 261047
6Silver40 x 31 1057
7Blue48 x 381072
8Orange56 x 44 1096
9Purple66 x 54 10128
10Bronze79 x 64 10176
11Silver91 x 7510236
 


Quantity:  


Camp Carvex on Wire

Size

Size
Stock
1 £8.25
2
2 £8.25
2
3 £8.25
2
4 ££8.25
2
5 £9.99
2
6 £9.99
1
7 £9.99
2
8 £9.99
2
9 £12.50
1
10 £12.50
1
11 £12.99
1



Camp - Hexcentrics

Hexcentrics Sadly, Camp Hexes on cord (made under licence from Black Diamond) have now gone the way of the Whillans Harness and the Fire Rockboot (climbers, it seems, can no longer be trusted to tie their own knots!).

This chart is here as a guide to what size cord you require to restring an old Hex. For cord for loose Hexes please see the bottom of this page.

Camp Hexcentrics
number

mm

kN

gm

Cord Diameter
118 x 14354mm
221 x 15575mm
324 x 187106mm
429 x 229187mm
534 x 2612268mm
640 x 3418369mm
748 x 3814529mm
856 x 4413789mm
966 x 54131089mm
1079 x 64131609mm
1191 x 75132309mm


 



 Cartoon © Tami Knight - Click to see more of her hilarious books such as Climbing Tales of Terror.

 




Cords for Hexes:
 

For rethreading Hexes and other nuts, we suggest that 1.25m of cord will allow for a reasonably long loop and a Double Fisherman's Knot with a good "tail".

Cord comes in the diameters listed below and is sold per 1.25 metre, especially for Hexes etc. It is cut with a "hot-knife" that seals it as well. If you need to cut it again then you will need to find a friendly shop that has a hot-knife to do it for you.

If you want other lengths and diameters suitable for other uses, please click for our Ropes section.

If you want specific lengths and diameters suitable for prussik loops, please click for our Descent section.

 



Mammut - 4mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths

4mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths Static. Breaking Strain when new: 4kN approx. Weight per metre: 10g. Colours vary. Priced per 1.25metres. WARNING not suitable for leader falls - aid use only.

Suitable for Hex size 1. 


Price: £0.63 [US$1.17] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  



Mammut - 5mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths

5mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths Static. Breaking Strain when new: 5.5kN approx. Weight per metre: 16g. Colours vary. Priced per 1.25metres. WARNING not suitable for leader falls - aid use only.

Suitable for Hex size 2. 


Price: £0.75 [US$1.40] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  



Mammut - 6mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths

6mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths Static. Breaking Strain when new: 8kN approx. Weight per metre: 23g. Colours vary. Priced per 1.25metres.

Suitable for Hex size 3. 


Price: £1.00 [US$1.86] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  



Mammut - 7mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths

7mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths Static. Breaking Strain when new: 11kN approx. Weight per metre: 33g. Colours vary. Priced per 1.25metres.

Suitable for Hex size 4. 


Price: £1.25 [US$2.33] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  



Mammut - 8mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths

8mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths Static. Breaking Strain when new: 15kN approx. Weight per metre: 40g. Colours vary. Priced per 1.25metres.

Suitable for Hex size 5 and all sizes of Wild Country Rockcentric


Price: £1.56 [US$2.91] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  



Mammut - 9mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths

9mm Cord x 1.25 metres individual lengths Dynamic. Breaking Strain when new: 19.5kN approx. Weight per metre: 52g. Colours vary. Priced per 1.25metres.

Suitable for Hexs sizes 6 to 9. 


Price: £1.88 [US$3.50] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  



Marlow - 5.5mm Dyneema Cord x 1.1 metre individual lengths

5.5mm Dyneema Cord x 1.1 metre individual lengths 5.5mm Static cord that is almost as strong as 9mm rope. Use it for restringing nuts etc to save weight and bulk, but tie a triple rather than a double fisherman's knot (if you don't know the difference then ring us up and we'll explain!). Colourful Black only. 15.89kN. 22g/m. The average Hex requires 1.1m to do this and leave a sensible loop. Priced per 1.1 metres. 


Price: £3.30 [US$6.15] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  



Marlow - 5.5mm Dyneema Cord x 0.75 metre individual lengths

5.5mm Dyneema Cord x 0.75 metre individual lengths As above, but enough to restring a Friend - priced per 0.75 metres. 


Price: £2.25 [US$4.19] (Including VAT at 17.5%)


Quantity:  





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