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Tami Knight - Click to see more of her hilarious books
such as Climbing
Tales of Terror.
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Scottish
Winter Climbing Gear
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These
notes are intended to assist the climber who has already
gained considerable knowledge of rock climbing and is
fully aware of its risks but still wishes to progress
into Scottish winter mountaineering. They are brief
and not designed to be comprehensive in any way. Ultimately
climbing is a dangerous sport and claims many casualties
each year. One of the guiding principals of British
climbing and mountaineering is that it is the individual
climber is responsible for his or her own safety. If
you cannot accept this then this site and probably climbing
in general is unlikely to suit you. May we refer you
to this
very interesting site instead!
If
you are still determined to venture into the Highlands
in winter then the BMC's Navigation
Skills is worth reading.
For
sound advice on how to choose and use winter equipment
the MC of S's Winter
Essentials is essential reading as is their
Gearing
up for Winter.
The
BMC also administers the Conville
Trust which provides subsidised Winter Skills
courses for young impoverished climbers.
Check
out the latest Scottish
Winter Conditions.
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Ice
climbing gear has improved enormously in recent years.
It has also become considerably more specialised; to
the extent that one now has to ask exactly what sort
of winter routes one intends to do before choosing the
appropriate kit.
Above:
Dave Bodecott tackling steep ice on the third pitch
of Minus One Gully (VI, 6), Ben Nevis.
Below:
Stephen Reid thrutching his way up Savage Slit (V),
Coire an Lochan, Cairngorms (photo by Andy Perkins).
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| Basic
Scottish Winter Climbing:
Up
to Grade IV |
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Semi-rigid
12 point crampons are ideal. These are stiff enough
for climbing yet still flexible enough to be comfortable
when walking and do not ball up too badly
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At
this sort of grade, straight-shafted tools (or
very slightly curved tools) are probably best
- they are certainly easier to use in confined
spaces such as gullies and when plunging the shafts
into snow (a common technique on easier pitches)
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| Advanced
Scottish Winter Climbing: Grade
V and above |
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Fully
rigid crampons may be preferred. They give firmer
placements when frontpointing and less wobble
on tiny rock holds
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For
steep ice climbs a pair of bent-shafted axes can
give a distinct advantage, but on buttress routes
straight shafts are are less likely to lever out
when torquing the adze or hammer head in cracks
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| Continental-type
Icefalls: |
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Fully
rigid crampons are best
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Bent-shafted
axes are de rigeur
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| Other
Kit : |
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Fully
stiffened boots, either leather or plastic, with
a good level of insulation, are essential
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Take
a fairly full rack, though nuts are better than
friends in icy cracks, and Slings
become more useful than ever - take lots
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| Ice-Screws |
Essential
on many routes of grade III and above |
| Pitons |
A
small bunch should always be carried, especially
in icy conditions where cracks may be iced up |
| Helmet |
Essential
for all winter climbing |
| Headtorch |
You'll
be lost without one! |
| Bivi-bag |
If
you do get lost (or injured), you may well need
one. Also spare food and clothing. |
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If
the climber in the photo looks a bit sheepish it is
because he has just ridden several hundred feet down
Creag Meagaidh on the avalanche behind him. The photographer
was with him too - hence the camera shake. Be careful
out there! |
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The
Divine Mysteries of the Oromaniacal Quest |
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what joy, think ye, did they feel after
the exceeding long and troublous ascent?
- after |
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Scrambling,
slipping
Pulling, pushing
Lifting, gasping
Looking, hoping
Despairing, climbing
Holding on, falling off
Trying, puffing,
Loosing, gathering,
Talking, stepping,
Grumbling, anathematising
Scraping, hacking
Bumping, jogging
Overturning, hunting
Straddling, - |
| for
know you that by these methods alone are
the most divine mysteries of the Quest reached. |
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Norman
Collie
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