Alpine Climbing

These notes are intended to assist the climber who has already gained considerable knowledge of rock climbing and Scottish winter mountaineering and is fully aware of its risks but still wishes to progress into Alpine Mountaineering, both in summer and winter. They are brief and not designed to be comprehensive in any way. Ultimately climbing is a dangerous sport and claims many casualties each year. One of the guiding principals of British climbing and mountaineering is that it is the individual climber is responsible for his or her own safety. If you cannot accept this then this site and probably climbing in general is unlikely to suit you. May we refer you to this very interesting site instead!

	Cartoons © Tami Knight

Alpine Climbing - Summer:

Photo: Alpinists in the Dauphinee.

Venturing to the Alps for the first time can seem a little daunting, and so in way it should be, for all the risks of Scottish Winter Climbing are there, with the additional ones of stonefall and crevasses. However the rules of the game are fairly simple and the rewards fantastic - to see the rising sun illuminate the Matterhorn as one summits on the Dent Blanche is an experience not to be forgotten.

There are many instructional books available on Alpine Climbing Skills, but in the end there is only so much that you can learn from a book or computer, and if you have no-one trustworthy to show you, there is no substitute for learning the basics of glacier safety with a qualified Mountain Guide. Plas y Brenin administers the Conville Trust which provides subsidised Alpine Skills courses for young impoverished climbers and which can reduce the cost of a three day course to about a third.

Below is my own Alpine Gear Ticklist based on many years of experience. Not all of it is essential by any means, and you may think some items are needed which are not mentioned. In many ways, the less you carry, the greater your chance of success. Items that are available from us, and other suppliers can be clicked on for more detail. What is never quite clear is exactly how much hardware to take. It is probably better to take a fair amount as far as basecamp, and then select from that for each route, as inevitably stuff gets abandoned/lost and bad weather often forces a retreat to crags where a full rack may be required. It can often waste a good day having to go into Chamonix or wherever simply to buy extra abseil tat or replace a lost wire. Likewise it is best to take with you plenty of spare torch batteries, bulbs, suncream and gas cylinders (though not the latter if you are flying).

Alpine Climbing - Summer & Winter Kit
Main Kit
Trekking Poles	Not perhaps essential in summer, and a definite encumberance on many climbs. However if you suffer from knee/ankle injuries they may be useful. Brilliant for winter where route approaches often involve wading through heavy snow.
Technical axe	A 55cm alpine style curved pick axe or similar is probably the best all round alpine axe, being short enough for technical climbing and long enough for glacier work. We would only recommend a pair of drooped pick tools for more technical routes (TD and above).
Technical hammer	A shorter hammer 50cm or 45cm is best - or consider a really lightweight "third tool" instead for voie normal type routes where some harder sections may be expected.
Alpine Axe	If you are taking a pair of drooped picked tools, it may be worth having an alpine axe (see above) for use on easier routes.
Axe Bandolier	Having used (and got tangled up in) many a tat and micro-krab botch-up over the years, we took little convincing that a purpose built "Double Spring Leash" is the best we have found to stop those expensive and useful axes taking a tumble down the nearest crevasse.
Crampons	12 point semi-rigid for preference (Grivel Airtech or similar) - alpine climbing is mainly walking, so only take fully rigid crampons on the hardest routes!
Boots	Once it was all plastics but now boots like the Scarpa Phantom, and Sportiva Batura provide a more comfortable lighter alternative. For winter, plastics are still the best if you want to avoid frostbite.
Helmet	Absolutely essential. Lightweight and probably white (for coolness), make sure it has head torch fixing points.
Expedition Sack/Gear Bag	A large bag to transport and store this lot in.
Climbing Sack	Should be big enough (ca 55L + 10L extension) for routes involving several bivis, but light enough to use as a crag sac. The POD Black Ice is ideal. Alternatively Macpac's Ascent is also very good.
Ropes	Must be dry treated and preferably a pair for harder routes. Beal's 8.1mm Iceline or Mammut's 8.5mm Genesis are both great choices, but 9mm ropes will do fine. For easier, "voie normal" type routes, many parties would use a single 8.1mm, 8.5 or 9mm rope, rather than carry a weightier 10mm even though these slimmer ropes are not rated for single use.
Harness	Something light with adjustable leg-loops, or better no leg-loops at all like DMM's Super Couloir or Black Diamond's Bod.
Hardware
Slings x 6	Take lots of slings, they are very quick to place, and can be used as extenders too.
Quickdraws x 10	Take lots in case you go valley cragging on an off-day, or even end up in the Verdon. On a typical Difficile route, 4 plus your slings would probably do.
Set of Wires	Again this may be cut down for the actual route to say, Rock 1, Rock 3, Rock 5 and Rock 7, but take lots to basecamp in case you abandon some on your first route.
Set of Cams	Ditto (sort of). For many easier routes it is probably not worth the extra weight.
Pegs	Ditto (sort of). Worth having a few blades if nothing else, as they may get you out of a sticky situation.
Screw-in Icescrews x 6	You'll certainly need one apiece for crevasse rescue, and more if you intend doing any big ice/snow faces.
Warthogs x 2	Handy for the rock hard black ice that is often encountered in the alps in summer.
Belay Plate	In fact best to take two to base, and learn how to do an Italian Hitch in case you drop one.
Prussik Loops	Essential for crevasse rescue an useful for ab tat for retreats too. Practice how to use them before you need to! Alternatively, ascenders work better but are heavier.
Ab Tat	Take plenty of abseil tape or cord to abandon as you abseil down when things go horribly wrong.
Abalakov Threader	For making Abalakov Threads for belays or abseils.
Bivi Gear
Tent	Something solid for your valley base.
Inflatable Mat	Worth having for the valley - you'll sleep better.
Down Sleeping Bag	A super lightweight one like Rab's Alpine 300 is best for summer. Can be used without clothes at valley level and with clothes at altitude. In winter, you really need something that you can survive in, say 4/5 season.
Bivi Bag	Essential.
Closed Cell Foam Mat	Better than a thermarest for bivi's as it's lighter and indestructable.
Bivi Boots	Very useful for winter bivis and well worth their weight.
Pee Bottle	Very useful for winter bivis. Make sure it's clearly labelled, and large enough (1litre)!
Stove	For summer use, a micro gas stove is fine (but see note on fuel below). For winter use take an MSR XGK or similar as gas won't burn effectively below 0°C.
Fuel	We can't send fuel by post, hence it doesn't feature on our website. Be aware that screw-threaded gas cylinders are not widely available in remote alpine valleys and it is best to take them with you (though not if travelling by plane). An Adaptor is available to convert percable gas cylinders to screw threaded.
Lighter and Matches	Preferably both and x 2!
Plate	Something that doubles as a bowl.
Mug	A large one if you want your fair share of the soup.
Pan	Something light and quite large. It makes little difference to the weight and is less likely to spill.
Knife, Spoon, Fork	Though real 'ard men use use their pitons!
Cling Film	Handy for wrapping up sandwiches made the day before.
Plastic Bags and ties	Ditto.
Water Container	A large one, and if there is not water en route, consider taking two.
Climbing Clothing
wicking underpants x 2	Much better than cotton.
wicking longsleeve T	Much better than cotton. Longsleeves to stave off sunburn.
Belay Jacket & Expedition Hood or Down Jacket	This item of Buffalo is super for summer use as spare clothing, being light and still warm when wet. If you don't like it then a down jacket will do. For winter, take the full Buffalo Double-P System for preference (ie Big Face Shirt, Half-Zip Salopettes, Belay Jacket & XPD Hood) and ignore the next four items and the above two. Or take summer kit, with tougher waterproofs and extra pullovers.
Waterproof Jacket	Very lighweight (eg Marmot Precip).
Waterproof Trousers	Very lighweight (eg Marmot Precip).
Windproof Top	Wear this in preference to a waterproof and carry the waterproof in your sack (you'll be far more comfortable).
Softshell Trousers	Hardwearing, stretchy and fairly wind and weather resistant.
Thick Socks x 2	Go for good quality if you can afford it - your feet will appreciate it.
Liner Socks x 2	Ditto.
Gaiters	If using leather boots, full gaiters (Terragaiters) make sense.
Neck Gaiter	For cold conditions (especially winter). A silk neckerchief is handy in summer.
Balaclava	For emergency use.
Headband	Very useful for ascents where you are sweating buckets but risk getting your ear-tips frost bitten if you don't wear a hat.
Hat	For when you stop moving so fast, or it gets colder.
Liner Gloves x 2	For summer approaches.
Thicker Gloves	For winter approaches.
Buffalo Mitts	Brilliant emergency mitts, light and very warm.
Climbing Gloves	The Terra Nova Guide Glove for summer perhaps, something warmer for winter. Don't put them on until you actually start climbing as you will sweat into them too much.
Other Clothing etc
Overnight Bag	For travel and basecamp/valley stuff , it is worth having a separate bag of clean kit.
Washkit
Shampoo
Towel
Underpants
Socks
T Shirts
Pullovers
Shoes
Sandals
Coat
Pillow	You may mock, but car journeys (as a passenger!) are greatly improved, as is comfort on the campsite.
Food
Evening Meals	Totally personal and probably best bought locally. Beware that too much dehydrated food can leave you dehydrated yourself. Tescos seems just as good for instant food as many specialist outdoor brands, and about half the price. Breakfast Mix is muesli and milk powder mixed together meaning at bivis you just need to add water.
Peanut Butter
Honey
Bread
Breakfast Mix
Chocolate
Tea
Coffee
Powdered Milk
Nuts
Biscuits
Cake
Miscellaneous
Camera	Get one small enough to hang around your neck and stuff down your shirt.
Spare Film/Memory Card	Most people will use digital cameras these days. Make sure you have enough memory for all those wonderful climbs you are going to do. If still using film, Fuji slide film seems excellent for mountain use.
Compass	Essential.
Whistle	Essential.
Maps	Essential.
Map Case	Not essential, but consider a plastic bag at least.
Guide Books	Useful.
Goggles	Ski-goggles with almost clear lenses can be a life saver in a storm, particularly in winter.
Glacier Glasses	Essential unless you want to go snowblind.
Sun Cream	Essential.
Lip Salve	Essential - make sure it is an anti sunburn one.
First Aid Kit	Essential - but you'll almost certainly chuck it out at the last minute.
Pocket Knife	Very useful for all sorts of repairs. Don't put it in your hand luggage!
Passport Bag	Something to keep all your valuables dry in.
Head torches x 2	Well at least one, probably the new LED type as they save a lot of weight.
Spare Batteries	Take a set on every route, plus a spare bulb.
Biro	Or pencil, anything to write with.
Watch	Preferably with an alarm, if not an altimeter.
GPS	Useful but not essential (and it's all extra weight).
Documents
Tickets	Don't forget them!
Passport	Is it in date?
Insurance	Essential. Mountain rescue and medical treatment is not free in most Continental countries. Getting choppered out could cost you thousands. As could medical treatment. Even in EU countries you are likely to have to pay a considerable proportion of the costs and if you are in Switzeland, all of them.
European Health Insurance Card	Get one of these from in case you need to see a doctor in another EU country.
Credit Card	Essential, but be aware that quite common UK cards are not accepted everywhere.
Cash	&/or travellers cheques.
Foreign Money	Cash will be essential in many alpine huts.
Driver's Licence	Don't forget it if you are picking up a hire car or taking your own.
Europ assistance	Essential if you are taking your own car abroad.
Spare Car Key	In case your rucksack goes down a crevasse.
Road Map	To stop you getting lost.
Dictionaries	In case you do get lost.
Getting There
Easyjet	Cheap flights to alpine areas.
Ryan Air	Ditto.
ATS	Handy transport when you get there with all that kit.


	Colwyn Jones near the summit of the Dent Blanche with the Matterhorn in the background.


Alpine Climbing - Winter:
First off, this page is not about icefall climbing. It is about climbing the traditional Alpine mountain routes in winter. This is not a pursuit to be recommended to anyone who has not served a resonable summer alpine apprenticeship and has done a great deal of Scottish winter climbing as well. Alpine winter mountaineering has most if not all of the same problems as alpine summer mountaineering with several additional ones, most notably increased cold, and shorter hours of daylight, and you will need to decide from the outset whether to take the go-for-it-in-a-day lightweight approach or the possible bivi approach. Possible Bivi: Expect temperatures ranging from -10°C at night down to -30°C. Although in dry alpine air, -10°C does not feel too bad, -30°C is perishing, and you will need to be prepared for bivouaccing in such conditions even if you don't intend to. Thus your rucksack should include a good 4/5 season sleeping bag, a high insulation sleeping mat, a bivi bag, and a stove (gas stoves won't work in these temperatures - take a petrol stove such as the MSR-XGK) and food, even if you plan to do your climb in one day. Of course you will then climb more slowly because you are carrying a large rucksack. You will also tire more rapidly. So you are more likely to have to bivi, but the consequences of an enforced bivi out in winter without a good sleeping bag could be very serious and indeed has proved so on many occasions. Again, a bivi may be on the cards due to the shorter hours of daylight. Deeper snow on the approach, and snow covered holds on rock pitches may add to the difficulties and also the time taken. Another danger is that there are few people about in the alps in winter. Whilst this has definite benefits (less stone-fall and so on) it also brings extra risks in that there maybe no-one to come to your aid or even notice if you have an accident.
		Photo Above: Steve Carruthers on the Forbes Arete of the Chardonet (Chamonix) in March - not only were there no other climbers on the the route, there were none on the mountain! An unlikely scenario in summer.

		Finally close attention must be paid to the Meteo as if a storm brews up you could be in a very serious position indeed. In this age of mobile phones and pocket radios it would be as well to have a valley contact from whom you can get weather forecasts on a daily basis.
		Photo Left: Trying to get a brew going on a gas stove in an alpine hut in winter - not a great success.

The benefits of winter alpine climbing are many. For a start big north-facing ice and mixed routes that are seldom in condition in summer these days may be in superb nick. Moreover they are unlikely to have anyone else on them. Huts will be empty and generally unwardened and much cheaper (by law, all have to have some shelter open - remember to take your own food and some change for the honesty box). Though storms can be very serious, long periods of stable weather are also likely. Routes and huts can often be skied into making approaches and descents much less tiring and much more fun. Generally this is no use if your descent is on another side of the mountain but on easier routes it may be possible to carry short skis. If you can't ski (and realistically you need to be sking red runs withiout falling and be capable of doing kick turns facing outwards on very steep slopes), then consider snowshoes. Whatever your approach method, a pair of trekking poles will be found invaluable. It is also worth seriously considering carrying one or all of the following: Avalanche Tranceiver, Snow Shovel, Avalanche Probe.
Photo Right: Ian Conway on the North Face of the Droites in Winter.

		Go for It in a Day All the above applies, but you still reckon you can get from the valley/hut to the summit and back in a day. This may be feasible if: a) you are fit, b) the forecast is excellent for several days, c) you are climbing well below your limits, d) the route is short, and, e) you know the area very well and are unlikely to get lost. If you are convinced of this, then you just have to accept the risk of being benighted without proper bivi-gear, and take the absolute minimum you need. You should move faster and consequently achieve your target - but if you blow it you could lose all your toes - or worse. If the above criteria don't apply, then reconsider the Possible Bivi approach as listed above.
		Photo Left: Steve Caruthers trying to keep to the neve in a sea of rock hard black ice on the North Face of the Tour Ronde in winter.

Finally do not forget to check out the avalanche danger and also comments that other climbers may have made in the register at the Guides Bureau - much the same things as you might do in Scotland in winter. If avalanche warning flags are showing you may be invalidating your insurance if you ignore them.

Bon chance!

Photo Right: Skis can often make the approach much easier and safer in winter. The descents are more enjoyable too. If you can't ski, consider Snowshoes.

If the conquest of a great peak brings moments of exultation and bliss, which in the monotonous, materialistic existence of modern times nothing else can approach, it also presents great dangers. It is not the goal of grand alpinisme to face peril, but it is one of the tests one must undergo to deserve the joy of rising for an instant above the state of crawling grubs. On this proud and beautiful mountain we have lived hours of fraternal, warm and exalting nobility. Here for a few days we have ceased to be slaves and have really been men. It is hard to return to servitude.

Lionel Terray