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Cartoon © Tami Knight
These notes are intended to assist the climber who has already gained some knowledge of rock climbing and is fully aware of its risks but still wishes to progress further up the grades, and indeed the mountains. They are brief and not designed to be comprehensive in any way. Ultimately climbing is a dangerous sport and claims many casualties each year. One of the guiding principals of British climbing and mountaineering is that it is the individual climber is responsible for his or her own safety. If you cannot accept this then this site and probably climbing in general is unlikely to suit you. May we refer you to this very interesting site instead!
This section should be read in conjunction with the page on Basic Climbing.
Virtually every climber reckons their rack is the best! And so it is - for them at least. So these notes are very personal and are only intended to give an idea of a suitable rack for leading long pitches at the upper end of your grade ability. It goes without saying that not everything would be carried on every route - there is little point in carrying all this lot on a 15m pitch.
An Advanced Rack for High Mountain Areas:
Professional Mountain Guide Colin Wornham starting the crux pitch of Goodbye to All That (E1, 4c,5b,5a,5b) Pillar Rock, during the second ascent. Note the extensive selection of gear needed to protect a long high mountain route of this sort. Also that he is climbing on double 'half' ropes.
Photo: Jeff Appleyard on the final pitch of Dream of White Horses (HVS, 4c), Gorgath, North Wales,
a good place for lots of gear and extending your runners properly!
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