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(NX
483 705) 100m S facing,
(SMC Lowland Outcrops 2004, page 195)
Corwar Crag is a small (30m) but steep buttress of compact granite
with a beautiful outlook south-east over Bargaly Glen. It is fairly
fast to dry, catches plenty of afternoon sun and is reasonably
quick to approach. Protection can be tricky on some of the routes
and a good selection of small camming devices is recommended.
The area is seriously midge-ridden in summer but makes a good
venue at other times. The Forestry Commission has kindly felled
numerous trees around the crag to improve the climbing.
Access is from the A712. Turn off the A75 onto the A712 before
Newton Stewart and drive 6 miles up this road to a large lay-by
and look-out at the Glen of the Bar (NX 479 707). Park by the
rather weird look-out, and follow a trail down and across a stream,
then take a bearing of 120° (East by South-East) through woods
(paint marks on trees indicate the way) to the crag (10mins).
The crag sits above a forest track which can be accessed 1.5miles
further south along the A712 (signed Corwar and Dallash). The
Forestry Commission allow pedestrian and bicycle access along
this track, but no vehicles please (25mins on foot).
The most prominent feature of the crag is the shallow chimney/groove
of Bigger Than Tigger on the left. Further right, the obvious
right to left-slanting break, passing a smooth black niche (which
at the time of writing contains a small birch sapling), is taken
by Ruta Aurelio. All the climbs here are worth doing, with
The Prune (MVS), Corwar Wall (HVS), and Plum
Line (E2) being well worth travelling out of your way to tackle.
The latter is not paticularly technical (5b), but somewhat bold
in the lower part.
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Corwar
Crag and the main lines - John Biggar (who was one of the
discoverers of the crag)
taking a break during cleaning operations
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| Pinus
Worship |
VD* |
|
Corwar
Wall |
HVS** |
| Bigger
Than Tigger |
S* |
|
Nutcase
|
E2** |
| Alpamayo
No More |
VS* |
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Tutti
Frutti |
E1** |
| The
Prune |
MVS**
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The
Harvesters |
E4* |
| The
Peach (Grade is height dependent!) |
HVS/E1** |
|
Ruta
Aurelio |
E1** |
| Plum
Line |
E2*** |
|
The Midge |
HVS |
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| Photo:
Stephen Reid making the first ascent of Plum Line, Corwar
Crag. Photo: John Biggar |
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Photo Left: David Staton on The Prune,
Corwar Crag. |
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Photo Right: Stephen Reid making the first
ascent of Corwar Wall, Corwar Crag. Photo: John Biggar |
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Photos:
Left, Chris King at the start of the hard moves
on Nutcase and above on Tutti Frutti.
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200m further
up the glen, and visible from the forest road, is a 5 metre slab
of granite which gives some good bouldering.
HISTORY
The history of climbing at Corwar is brief. The crag was discovered
lurking amongst forestry by Colin Hossack who worked for Galloway
Forest Enterprise at the time. The trees were so dense that it
could not be seen from the forest track, only 100 yards away.
Colin informed John
Biggar, and judicious felling of offending woodland soon took
place. Biggar then cleaned much of the crag of the carpet of moss
and pine needles that it had acquired, and Biggar (partnered variously
by Andy Owen, Hossack, Linda Biggar and Lindsay Cannon), led many
of the easier climbs including the excellent Mild VS of The Prune,
and the heightist The Peach (HVS/E1). Biggar then enlisted Stephen
Reid to lead some of the harder lines, including the classics
of Corwar Wall (HVS) and Plum Line (E2). Their first new routes
though were Ruta Aurelio (E1 5b) and Alpamayo No More (VS), on
both of which they were accompanied by Peruvian mountain guide
Damien Aurelio. Together they then cleaned up the crag (literally
as well as metaphorically), leaving only The Harvesters (E4) for
Dave Armstrong and Mike Hetherinton on a flying visit from Carlisle,
though a direct version of The Midge still awaits an attempt.
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Photo
Left: John
Biggar, and Right John cleaning up The Midge at Corwar
Crag.
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