Approaching the Clints of the Spout via Craignelder
(NX 509 667) 450m E facing, (SMC Lowland Outcrops Guide page 152)

The Clints of the Spout are very remote with a wonderful atmosphere. The easiest approach is follow the tourist path from Cairnsmore House Farm (471 641) to the summit of Cairnsmore of Fleet (502 671). From here, descend north-east to the Nick of the Saddle (the col between Cairnsmore of Fleet and Meikle Mulltaggart) and then, southward to the cliffs (2hrs). The crags are too broken to offer good rock climbing but provide two classic winter climbs. The routes are east facing and catch the sun all morning. A prolonged and severe freeze of at least a week and an alpine start would seem to be essential for good conditions.

Photo: The Clints of the Spout in winter.

 

Photo Left: Adrian Moore on the top pitch of Spout of the Clints during the first summer ascent.

 

 

Photo Right: Chris Bonington on the second pitch of Spout of the Clints during the first winter ascent.
Photo: The top pitch of the Spout of Clints in winter, just prior to its first ascent by Stephen Reid and Chris Bonington in January 1997.


There are only two routes recorded on the Clints of the Spout. The main line is the central gully of The Spout of the Clints which is a wet three pitch VS* in summer, though it may become easier in a drought. When frozen in winter it is an excellent grade V (4,4,5)***. The final pitch is the crux and not too well protected.

The only other route is Smear Test (IV 3,3,3,4***) a spectacular icefall on the right of the crag which gives an excellent climb in three or four pitches with the final thin smear up the top slab being the crux.

HISTORY
Gordon Waldie records finding "a fair number of scrambles and gullies in the eastern recesses of Cairnsmore of Fleet", but it is hard to believe that the Spout was one of them, for he almost certainly would have recorded it. The Spout was definitely climbed as a summer route in May 1992 by Stephen Reid, Adrian Moore and

Photo Left: Doug Scott on the first pitch of Smear Test during the first ascent.

 

Photo Right: Stephen Reid on the final pitch of Smear Test during the first ascent (photo - Doug Scott).

 

John Campbell, with Moore leading the crux top pitch. The team found several bits of old aeroplane debris en route. Reid visited the crag with Dave Wilson in the winter of 1995 with designs on the gully but it wasn't formed, and an attempt on Smear Test was abandoned on the top pitch when water spurted from his axe placements.

In January 1997, alerted to good conditions by Jim Lawrence and Simon Mortlock's second ascent of Dow Spout on Craignaw, Reid rushed north with Chris Bonington to make the first winter ascent of the Spout of the Clints. He returned two days later with Doug Scott to grab the first ascent of Smear Test as well. The next day it all melted, and the routes have yet to be repeated.

   Photo: An old aeroplane engine from the Second World War in the bottom of the coire.

 
Photo: Chris Bonington approaching the Clints of the Spout Coire very early in the morning.
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