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525m NE facing, (SMC Lowland Outcrops Guide page 137) |

Photo:
The Tauchers showing the main crags.
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Please
note that there is a ban on climbing on this crag from 1st March
to 31st July due to rare birds nesting.
The TAUCHERS
are pronounced "Talkers" (almost!). Although some of
the climbing in this remote coire on Mullwharchar is rather lichenous
and slow to dry, there are some excellent exceptions, most notably
Behind the Mask (E1 5b***)., on the ORGAN PIPES.
On the same buttress, Phoebus
Mask (E3 5c**) is also clean, quick to dry and well worth
the walk. The
somewhat gothic experience of Brigadoon
( El 5b*) , also on the Organ Pipes,
is another worthwhile climb, as are Dragon Slayer E3 6a,5b*),
The Dungeonmaster (E1 5b,4b*) and The Throne (E1
5b*). The other routes though are rather vegetated.
Photo: Chris King on the
classic grooved arete of
Behind the Mask (E1 5b***).
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Photo: Chris King on the imposing groove of Brigadoon
(E1 5b).
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| Photo:
Some Tauchers climbing is just a little bit vegetated... Chris King
somewhere on the Giant's Stairway - note the midge-net! |
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On the main
crag of the GIANT'S STAIRWAY, Switchback (VD*),
particularly
with the new finish, makes a fine start to a scrambling ascent
of Mullwharchar, as does the Couloir (M*). Of the harder
routes The Raiders (HVS 5a,4c,4a*) and Solstice (E2
5c*) are worth doing, though the former is often wet, while Bugle
(HVS) has a good but scary first pitch after which the climbing
deteriorates. On the TIERS to the right of the stream there
are many pleasant pitches some of which have been joined to make
multi-pitch climbs.
The coire has an atmosphere that is almost magical and certainly
unlike any other venue in the Galloway Hills and this alone repays
a visit.
Photo:
Dave McGimpsey on the first pitch
of The Raiders (HVS) during
the first ascent (Fraser).
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Photo:
Graham Little on the first ascent of an as yet unidentified route
on the Tauchers on 13th April 1968.
(Little Collection) |
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HISTORY
James McBain famously (and grippingly) recounts soloing the Couloir
(M) in about 1900 in his book The Merrick and Other Hills
(Ayre 1929).
There then
follows a long lull until 1968 when Graham Little and Jimmy Dykes
did several as yet unidentified rock climbs, a day after their
momentouus ascent of The
Highwayman on the Dungeon of Buchan. These route descriptions
have only recently been unearthed from Little's diary.
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Diary
entry from Graham Little:- detailing an eight pitch as yet unidentified
route on the Tauchers (click to enlarge). |
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Little later
soloed The Couloir (I/II*) in winter.
Between 1992
and 1995, Ayr based climbers, Andrew Fraser, Dave McGimpsey, Rob
McAllister, Stuart Lampard and others added many of the main routes,
including Behind the Mask (E1) (led by McAllister), The Raiders
(HVS), The Dungeonmaster (E1) and Brigadoon (E1), the latter having
been attempted by Little in the '70s. Lampard's Solstice (E2)
was originally graded HVS!
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Also in 1995, visiting American, Paul Brown, backrope soloed (without
gardening!) several routes on the crag (and also one at Craigencallie),
including Phoebus Mask (E3), which McAllister had cleaned and
attempted previously, and The Throne (E1).
Finally
Chris King and Stephen Reid added a few routes whilst checking
the crag for the 2005 guide, the best of which is the 6a finger
crack of Dragonslayer (E3), a fine lead by King.
Left:
Paul Brown's meticulous diagram of his new routes on the Tauchers
(Paul Brown). Click to enlarge.
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Photo
Left: Andrew Fraser belayed by Rob McAllister on the first ascent
of Brigadoon (E1) (Fraser).
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THE SLOCK (NX 457 894) is a large rambling cliff on the
north-east end of Mullwharchar. It contains The Gullet
(70m Very Difficult 1992), which is the right-hand of the two
vegetated parallel gullies situated on the southern end of the
cliff. It was first (and possibly last) climbed by Dave McGimsey
and S Ravey in 1992.
GAW GLEN CRAG (NS 483 025) is an 8m high south-west facing
metamorphic buttress of good clean rock situated on the east
side of the Loch Doon road, about midway between the main Dalmellington
road and the dam. It has five 5 lines between Difficult and
Hard Severe and bolt belays, and is used by Outdoor Ed Centres.
The routes there were first climbed in the late 1970s/early
80s by Davie Sproat.
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Photo
Left: Rob McAllister on the first ascent
of Brigadoon (Fraser).
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Photo:
The "Sleeping Giant of Mullwarchar". This unusual
rock can be found near the base of Mullwharchar well to the
left of the entrance of the Tauchers Coire. It stands not far
above Pulskaig Burn, just south and west of where it joins Gala
Lane, near a large cubic boulder. It needs to be viewed from
above. Approximate Grid reference is 565 872. |
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