Make or Break

Sooner or later, nearly all climbers get injured and it will be injuries that ultimately dictate how far you get in climbing, if you let them, but famous Scottish E11 leader Dave MacLeod has some top tips.


Make or Break Video


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Make or Break Description

  • Brand : Rare Breed
  • Season :
  • Code : COR TC240
  • Packaged Weight : 0.33KG
  • As Wolfgang Gullich said, getting strong is easy, getting strong without getting injured is hard. Sooner or later, nearly all climbers get injured and it will be injuries that ultimately dictate how far you get in climbing, if you let them, but famous Scottish E11 leader Dave MacLeod has some top tips to stop them happening in the first place.

    Unfortunately, the data shows it takes over a decade just to get small proportions of medical research adopted in regular practice. Sourcing reliable and up to date advice on preventing and treating finger, elbow, shoulder and other climbing injuries is challenging to say the least. You need to be the expert, because there are so many strands of knowledge and practice to pull together to stay healthy as a climber, and no single source of advice to cover all of these.

    The book draws together both the cutting edge of peer reviewed sports medicine research, and the subtle concepts of changing your climbing habits and routine to prevent and successfully recover from injuries. It is a handbook on how to take care of yourself as a lifelong climbing athlete. By spanning the fields of climbing coaching, physiotherapy, sports medicine and behavioural science, it goes beyond the general advice on treating symptoms offered by sports medicine textbooks and into much more detail on technique and habits specific to climbing than the existing climbing literature base.

    You will learn how your current climbing habits are already causing your future injuries and what you can do to change that. If you are already injured, it will prevent you from prolonging your injury with the wrong climbing habits and rehabilitation choices. You will learn how the ingredients of prevention and good recovery come from wildly different sources and how you have been using only a fraction of them. Fully referenced throughout, the practical advice for diagnosis, rehabilitation and prevention of climbing injuries is drawn from up to date peer reviewed sports medicine research.

    Section 1: Make or break
    Why the treatments you have tried aren't working, and what to do about it.
    How to use this book
    The real reasons you are injured
    Stress and injury
    The reason you are still injured
    The language problem
    The practitioner problem
    The sports medicine problem
    The missing link
    Exceptional use: the luxury of doing your sport badly
    Your visit to the doctor's

    Section 2: Know pain, or no gain
    Pain and how to read it
    Seeing the patterns in your pain
    What is healthy soreness?
    Understanding your pain
    Going beyond reading only pain

    Section 3: Removing the causes of injury for prevention and treatment
    Are you only treating symptoms?
    What was the real cause?
    The big four: technique, posture, activity, rest
    Correcting technique
    Correcting posture
    How to rest
    Warm-up and injury

    Section 4: Rehabilitation of climbing injuries - treating both causes and symptoms
    Acute rehabilitation
    When to move beyond acute care
    Goals of mid-late rehabilitation
    Modern understanding of tendon injuries and recovery
    Therapeutic activity - basic exercises
    Therapeutic activity - climbing
    Proprioceptive training
    Walking the line of rehab ups and downs
    Therapeutic modalities
    Drug and other emerging treatments
    When to stop rehab?

    Section 5: Psychology of injuries: dealing with the anguish of injury
    Face it: it really is that bad!
    Take heart
    Finding motivation

    Section 6: Young climbers
    What young climbers should know
    Too much, too young: a warning
    What parents and coaches should do

    Section 7: The elbow
    Golfer's and tennis elbow
    Brachioradialis/brachialis strain
    Other elbow injuries

    Section 8: The fingers
    Different grips in climbing and consequences for injury
    Pulley injuries
    When and how to tape the fingers
    Painful finger joints
    Flexor unit strains
    Dupuytren's contracture
    Other finger injuries

    Section 9: The wrist
    Triangular fibrocartilage injury
    Carpal tunnel syndrome
    De Quervain's tenosynovitis
    Other wrist injuries

    Section 10: The shoulder
    Shoulder impingement/rotator cuff tears
    Biceps tendon insertion tears
    Labral tears
    Shoulder dislocation
    Frozen shoulder
    Thoracic outlet syndrome
    Shoulder and neck trigger points

    Section 11: Lower body injuries
    Foot pain in climbers
    Plantar fasciitis
    Heel pad bruising
    Ingrown toenails
    Sesamoid injuries
    Hallux valgus
    Morton's neuroma
    Ankle injuries in climbers
    Cartilage/joint injuries
    Ankle impingement syndrome
    Achilles tendon pain
    Knee injuries in climbers
    Meniscus tears
    Anterior cruciate ligament tears
    Medial collateral ligament tears
    Hamstrings tear

    Section 12: Further reading
    Further reading and references
    Getting access to good care

    Illustrated with line drawings and monochrome photographs.

    By Dave MacLeod.

    Card cover, 23.5cm x 19cm, 226 pages.

    Published 2015.

    ISBN: 978-0-9564281-3-4.

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    Make or Break
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