DMM Freedom Leash (with two Phantom Karabiners)

We have had reports of the wiregates on spring leashes becoming unclipped from iceaxes. This is easily resolved. Instead of clipping them directly to the axes, clip them to loops of 4mm or 5mm cord that are tied through suitable holes in the axes.

It is also easy to make yourself a bandolier to clip your spring leash into using a length (ca 2.25m) of narrow tape and a small screwgate krab. Tie an overhand knot in one end of the tape and clip it to your belay loop. Run the tape under your arm, up your back and over your shoulder, and tie an overhand loop in it at chest height. Continue the run down to waist level and make a third loop which is clipped into the same screwgate krab in your belay loop. The spring leash loop is now clipped into the chest loop.

The advantages of this system are that the elastic lanyards of the spring leash do not get tangled up with gear hanging on your harness and you are less likely to trip over them with your crampons. Another advantage is that the landyards are effectively lengthened, meaning that they can be clipped into a point on the shaft of the axe rather than into the ferule (as per the photo) - this is much better when mixed climbing as the ferule and lower shaft of the axe may need to be jammed into a crack, tricky if it has a karabiner flapping around on it.

Photo: Home made bandolier sysem.