Karabiners

Karabiners or Carabiners (aka "krabs" or "crabs") have been around since at least Victorian times, and were used by continental alpinists prior to the First World War but only really caught on in the British climbing scene in the late 1940s when masses of ex War Department ones became available. In recent years the design of karabiners has gone through a rapid period of evolution with ever lighter and more radical models appearing.

Karabiners were originally made from steel and were Oval, but it was soon found that "D" shaped ones were stronger and that these could be given a greater gate opening by making them as an Offset "D". In the 1970s alloy karabiners replaced steel for mountaineering use as they were so much lighter. Initially these were quite big for strength but improved design reduced the size and weight. Original krabs were Straight Gate, then Bent Gates were developed to allow easier clipping when sport climbing. In the mid-90s, Wire Gates, despite being derided initially as nappy pins, revolutionised karabiner design, enabling considerable weight savings to be made.

Screw Gates are designed for use where it is especially important that the gate remains closed (eg belays) and the HMS version (Halbmastwurfsicherung) was originally designed for use with a Munter (or Italian) hitch for belaying and abseiling, but are now much used with belay devices - though specialist Belay Karabiners, which prevent dangerous cross-loading, are a better choice.

In recent years, new innovative designs have appeared such as Pulley Karabiners and Locking Karabiners that do not have a screwgate.

The strength of karabiners is rated in kiloNewtons (kN) and are usually given for gate closed (along the back), gate open (along the back) and cross-loaded (between the back and the gate). A fall can engender forces of up to ca 6kN so it is important that all aspects of a karabiner are stronger than this. In the early days of lightweight krab design (ca 1980!) gate open strengths were not very high and karabiners could break in a fall if the gates were knocked open or the krab was cross loaded. These days karabiners have very high gate open and cross loading strengths meaning that modern karabiners made by a reputable firm are most unlikely to break.

One thing for certain is that today's climber would probably find it hard to imagine, or indeed manage, climbing without karabiners - they are so fundamental to modern mountaineering, yet British climbers did just that for well over 50 years from the foundation of the sport in the early 1880s and it was only after WWII that they became widely available.

DMM Rhino Screwgate
DMM Rhino Screwgate Karabiner
£13.49
£14.99
Save 10%
Back Order

Prevents auto and assisted locking belay devices rotating and so reduces the risk of cross loading.

Edelrid Bulletproof HMS Belay Screwgate
Edelrid Bulletproof HMS Belay Screwgate Karabiner
£21.60
£24.00
Save 10%
9 In Stock
Innovative hardwearing HMS belay karabiner with steel insert at the apex to protect against abrasion from grit in the rope and an internal spring bar to prevent it from turning round in circles
Black Diamond Gridlock Belay Karabiner
Black Diamond Gridlock Belay Karabiner
£20.00
Out of Stock

Simple but cunning screwgate that eliminates the dangers of cross loading the gate when using a belay plate.

Ocun Condor Screwgate Belay Karabiner
Ocun Condor Screwgate Belay Karabiner
£16.95
3 In Stock

Big belay karabiner with an independent internal wire gate for safe belaying and abseiling.

DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner
DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner
DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner
£19.79
£21.99
Save 10%
3 In Stock

Minimises the risk of cross loading the gate whilst belaying. Screwgate.

Foin Steel D Oval Screwgate Karabiner
Foin Steel D Oval Screwgate Karabiner
£9.80
8 In Stock

Galvanised steel D-shaped (almost oval) screwgate.

Peguet Maillon Rapide Standard Galvanised Steel
Peguet Maillon Rapide Standard Galvanised Steel
From £1.33
10 + In Stock

Locking chain link with loads of uses including abandoning in an abseil. Several sizes.

DMM XSRE Lock Blue
c63_14250_A532BL-XSRE-Lock-Blueswatch c63_12025_A531GR-xsre-green-swatch c63_14250_A532LG-XSRE-Lock-Limeswatch c63_12025_A531MG-XSRE-matt-greyswatch c63_12025_A531RD-xsre-red-swatch
DMM XSRE Lock
£13.99
4 In Stock

High quality locking accessory karabiner.

Camp Ekto Lock Accessory Karabiner
Camp Ekto Accessory Karabiner Camp Ekto Accessory Karabiner Camp Ekto Accessory Karabiner Camp Ekto Accessory Karabiner Camp Ekto Accessory Karabiner Camp Ekto Accessory Karabiner
Camp Ekto Lock Accessory Karabiner
From £8.10
£9.00
Save 10%
9 In Stock

High quality locking accessory karabiner. 5 colours.

Your order contains no items