Pegs

Pitons (or pegs as they are often known in Britain) are, since the advent of modern wires, nuts and camming devices, seldom used in the UK for summer rock-climbing any more. However they are an important tool in winter and alpine climbing where narrow cracks may be choked with ice and other protection hard to find. They are also used in big wall aid climbing.

Pitons are either Chrome-Molybdenum Hard Steel (made for repeated use) or Mild Steel that deforms to the rock (made for permanent placements). All the pegs we sell are Hard Steel except where clearly indicated otherwise.


Pegs: the four major types
Knifeblades
Thin blade pegs for fine cracks (1 - 3mm) and are the most useful and lightest to carry.
Kingpins
Also known as Lost Arrows. Fat blades made for wider cracks (4 - 7mm). They are rather heavy.
Leepers
Designed and made by American climber Ed Leeper. The term has become generic. They are like channels but with a double U shape, making them suitable for crack sizes in between Kingpins and Channels ( 8 - 15mm). They no longer seem to be in production.
Channels
Also known as Angles. U or V-shaped pitons made from formed steel sheet for wide cracks (15mm - 25mm).

Knowing what pitons (and indeed what gear in general) to carry for winter climbing is something that comes with experience. The requirements vary from area to area as well. For instance in the Cairngorms, cams may be found more useful than pegs, whereas on Ben Nevis it is well worth carrying a selection of pitons. The trick is to get the right balance between weight and safety.

Here is a typical Ben Nevis selection: Knifeblade Long x 1, Knifeblade Medium x 1, Channel Medium x 1, Kingpin x 1 (this last item is quite heavy and many would not carry one but they are useful in iced up cracks that are slightly wider than blade size). Additional pegs that might be considered are a larger Channel, and a Leeper (if you can find one).

Black Diamond Knifeblade/Bugaboo Peg
Black Diamond Knifeblade/Bugaboo Peg
From £16.00
1 In Stock

BD Knifeblades and Bugaboos (slightly larger knifeblades) are classic pitons for thinner cracks.

Camp Knifeblade Piton 100mm
Camp Knifeblade Piton
£16.00
3 In Stock

Excellent chrome-moly flat blades with a squared end. Suitable for cracks around 1mm - 3mm wide.

Black Diamond Lost Arrow Peg
Black Diamond Lost Arrow Peg
£22.00
2 In Stock

Tough enough to withstand repeated abuse in thin to medium-width cracks.

Camp Lost Arrow Piton
Camp Lost Arrow Piton
£21.00
9 In Stock

Thick chrome-moly blades, and quite heavy. Squared end. Suitable for cracks around 3mm - 9mm wide.

Black Diamond Angle Peg
Black Diamond Angle Peg
From £15.00
2 In Stock

Angle pegs fit larger cracks, pockets and pods, and have inherently high holding power.

Camp Corner Piton
Camp Corner Piton
From £14.00
4 In Stock

Chrome moly channels (aka angles). Suitable for cracks around 10mm - 20mm wide.

Petzl Caritool Small
Petzl Caritool Small
£8.50
5 In Stock

Simple dead light (plastic with wiregate) attachment for racking pegs or ice screws on your harness.

Petzl Caritool Evo
Petzl Caritool Evo
£14.50
4 In Stock

Ice screw holder adaptable to any type of harness.

Edelrid SM Clip
Edelrid SM Clip
£5.99
4 In Stock

Racking harness karabiner for gear organisation (ice screws, pegs etc.).

Grivel Carryabiner
Grivel Carryabiner
£14.00
4 In Stock

This ice screw racking device holds up to four ice screws and is also a full strength karabiner.

DMM Vault Wiregate
DMM Vault Wiregate
£31.49
£34.99
Save 10%
3 In Stock

An ice screw and peg racking carrier made in alloy rather than plastic.

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