Petzl GriGri +

The GriGri + is a cam-assisted braking device designed for all sport climbers, for both indoor and outdoor climbing. It can be used with all single ropes (though it is optimised for those of 8.9mm to 10.5 mm diameter) and is suited for intensive use. There are two usage modes to choose from depending on need: top-rope belay or lead belay. The top-rope belay mode and the anti-panic handle make for a more comfortable belay and Assist + mode makes it easier to take up slack, making the GriGri + particularly suitable for learning. The anti-panic handle is designed to assist users learning how to lower a climber: if the user pulls too hard on the handle, the anti-panic function engages to stop the rope from feeding through the device. Assist + mode pre-activates the blocking action of the cam, making it easier to take up slack and helping limit the risk of the rope feeding through the device in the event that the user accidentally releases the brake strand. When the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens due to the action of the brake-side hand; the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope. It gives a 3:1 mechanical advantage from the handle and camming mechanism helping to reduce the amount of effort needed to smoothly control the rate of descent, regardless of rope diameter

• For belaying both lead and top rope climbers.
• Easy to install the rope.
• Diagrams engraved on the belay device.
• Anti-panic handle.
• Optimised for learning how to top rope belay with Assist + mode.
• Cam-assisted blocking and smooth lowering.

Rope compatibility: all single ropes from 8.5mm to 11mm diameter (and optimised for those of 8.9mm - 10.5mm diameter).
Materials: aluminium side plates, stainless steel friction plate and wear plate, reinforced nylon handle.
Certifications: CE EN 15151-1, UIAA.

Weight: c 200g.

You might be wondering why Petzl have produced the Neox when they already have the GriGri.

Well, the GriGri is great for most users, especially for Brits who maybe spend a week or two sport climbing per year and the rest of the time are trad climbing on double ropes. Though not sold as a self locking device by Petzl, the GriGri effectively is, and this makes it safe to use by fairly inexperienced belayers as if "in doubt" it locks up. However this extra safety feature is a pain for regular sport climbers who are pushing the grades. When they need slack to clip a bolt, they want yards of it and quickly, so the last thing they need is a belay device that locks off suddenly - hence the Neox, which is aimed at experienced Sport and Competition climbers. This however does mean that the Neox is definitely not self locking in the same way that the GriGri is, and that a hand should be kept on the braking side rope at all times. Also, unlike the GriGri, the Neox is not suitable for indirect belaying, where the device is clipped to a bolt, rather than to your harness, something that is often done if the lead climber weighs a lot more than the belayer.

So, do consider the Neo if you are pushing the sport grades and you and your climbing partner are well used to using assisted braking belay devices.

But, do consider the GriGri if you are only an occasional sport climber and/or you are being belayed by an inexperienced second.