Extreme Rock
Extreme Rock is a companion volume to Hard Rock. It covers harder routes - from E1 to E9.
It has been out of print for many years now and unfortunately the plates from which it was printed were accidently destroyed, so it is unlikely to be reprinted again in its original format. To add insult to injury 4000 unbound copies were pulped, meaning that of the original 8000 print run, only around 4000 were ever sold. Second hand copies change hands for up to £400, so if you see an old copy going cheap, snap it up!
Extreme Rock Routes List
First Edition of Extreme Rock
published 1987 (Diadem)
The cover shows Dave Cuthbertson on Just a Little Tease (E5) Glen Nevis.
Photo: Ed Grindley
Extreme Rock Compleaters
James 'Caff' McHaffie (son of well-known Lakeland climber, the late Ray McHaffie) finally achieved the first Extreme Rock tick in 2021, his last route being Revelations at Raven Tor (his first was Bitter Oasis climbed in 1997). Cougar and Controlled Burning were most affected by rock fall (although T Rex and Return of the Natives are now too), both being a few grades harder than when originally done, with Cougar being E6 and Controlled E7. You can read an interview with Caff about his amazing achievement on the BMC Website.
The stopper route of course is Indian Face which narrows the list of contenders down to a handful! Have you completed all the Extreme Rock Routes, or do you know anyone who has? Or have you just got some comments? If so please let us know!
2025 saw the publication of a new edition of Extreme Rock, compiled by Grant Farquar and published by Vertebrate Publishing, who had previously bought the rights to Ken Wilson's publishing house Bâton Wicks.
Second Edition of Extreme Rock
published 2025 (Vertebrate Publishing)
The cover shows Kel Vargas on Pacemaker (E5), Lower Sharpnose Point.
Photo: Mike Hutton
Whilst the format is the same (ie excellent photography combined with essays written by a myriad of climbers), the routes included differ from those in the first edition considerably. Many will mourn the disappearance of classics such as The Pinch, Lord of the Rings, West Buttress Eliminate and Great Wall. Other notable exceptions such as the stopper route Indian Face (E9) appear to have been held over for a future volume to be entitled Ultimate Rock - watch this space!
Extreme Rock 2nd Edition Routes List
Buy Extreme Rock 2nd Edition
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