Karabiners or Carabiners (aka "krabs" or "crabs") have been around since at least Victorian times, and were used by continental alpinists prior to the First World War but only really caught on in the British climbing scene in the late 1940s when masses of ex War Department ones became available. In recent years the design of karabiners has gone through a rapid period of evolution with ever lighter and more radical models appearing.
Karabiners were originally Oval, but it was soon found that "D" shaped ones were stronger and that these could be given a greater gate opening by making them as an Offset "D". Original krabs were Straightgate, then Bentgates were developed to allow easier clipping when sport climbing. In the mid-90s, Wiregates, despite being derided initially as nappy pins, revolutionised karabiner design, enabling considerable weight savings to be made.
Screwgates are designed for use where it is especially important that the gate remains closed (eg belays) and the HMS version (Halbmastwurfsicherung) was originally designed for use with a Munter (or Italian) hitch for belaying and abseiling, but are now much used with belay devices - though specialist Belay Karabiners, which prevent dangerous cross-loading, are a better choice.
In recent years, new innovative designs have appeared such as Pulley Karabiners and Locking Karabiners that do not have a screwgate.
The strength of karabiners is rated in kiloNewtons (kN) and are usually given for gate closed (along the back), gate open (along the back) and cross-loaded (between the back and the gate). A fall can engender forces of up to ca 6kN so it is important that all aspects of a karabiner are stronger than this. In the early days of lightweight krab design (ca 1980!) gate open strengths were not very high and karabiners could break in a fall if the gates were knocked open or the krab was cross loaded. These days karabiners have very high gate open and cross loading strengths meaning that modern karabiners made by a reputable firm are most unlikely to break.
Proven karabiner for big walling due to its smooth, uniform shape that reduces karabiner shift.
A compact true oval karabiner that is easy to open one handed.
The PerfectO Screwgate is a compact true oval karabiner that is easy to open one handed.
A great krab for use with pulleys and anything else that needs to hang straight.
An oval-shaped keylock screwgate krab ideal for hauling systems and use with pulleys as loads hang centrally.
Revolutionary karabiner from DMM - designed to reduce rope drag.
A screwgate version of DMM's innovative Revolver karabiner, designed particularly for use as a pulley.
Clever karabiner for rigging a belay - particularly useful for aid climbing but with many other applications.
Prevents auto and assisted locking belay devices rotating and so reduces the risk of cross loading.
Screw gate HMS with keylock gate and special spring fastener that removes the danger of cross loading. 77g.
Auto-locking HMS especially designed for use with a belay plate and prevent cross-loading.
Innovative twingate belay/abseil karabiner that has an internal wiregate to prevent dangerous cross-loading.
Simple but cunning screwgate that eliminates the dangers of cross loading the gate when using a belay plate.
Big belay karabiner with an independent internal wire gate for safe belaying and abseiling.
Minimises the risk of cross loading the gate whilst belaying. Screwgate.
Auto double locking karabiner for use with a belay device.
Triple locking karabiner for use with a belay device.
Prevents belay plate karabiners from turning round in use thus eliminating the risk of cross-loading the gate.
A spare plastic bit for your Belay Master.
Self-locking karabiner with a friction spur to quickly provide added rope friction.
Excellent auto-locking Vertigo Via Ferrata Karabiner is very easy to use one handed.
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