Karabiners

Karabiners or Carabiners (aka "krabs" or "crabs") have been around since at least Victorian times, and were used by continental alpinists prior to the First World War but only really caught on in the British climbing scene in the late 1940s when masses of ex War Department ones became available. In recent years the design of karabiners has gone through a rapid period of evolution with ever lighter and more radical models appearing.

Karabiners were originally made from steel and were Oval, but it was soon found that "D" shaped ones were stronger and that these could be given a greater gate opening by making them as an Offset "D". In the 1970s alloy karabiners replaced steel for mountaineering use as they were so much lighter. Initially these were quite big for strength but improved design reduced the size and weight. Original krabs were Straight Gate, then Bent Gates were developed to allow easier clipping when sport climbing. In the mid-90s, Wire Gates, despite being derided initially as nappy pins, revolutionised karabiner design, enabling considerable weight savings to be made.

Screw Gates are designed for use where it is especially important that the gate remains closed (eg belays) and the HMS version (Halbmastwurfsicherung) was originally designed for use with a Munter (or Italian) hitch for belaying and abseiling, but are now much used with belay devices - though specialist Belay Karabiners, which prevent dangerous cross-loading, are a better choice.

In recent years, new innovative designs have appeared such as Pulley Karabiners and Locking Karabiners that do not have a screwgate.

The strength of karabiners is rated in kiloNewtons (kN) and are usually given for gate closed (along the back), gate open (along the back) and cross-loaded (between the back and the gate). A fall can engender forces of up to ca 6kN so it is important that all aspects of a karabiner are stronger than this. In the early days of lightweight krab design (ca 1980!) gate open strengths were not very high and karabiners could break in a fall if the gates were knocked open or the krab was cross loaded. These days karabiners have very high gate open and cross loading strengths meaning that modern karabiners made by a reputable firm are most unlikely to break.

One thing for certain is that today's climber would probably find it hard to imagine, or indeed manage, climbing without karabiners - they are so fundamental to modern mountaineering, yet British climbers did just that for well over 50 years from the foundation of the sport in the early 1880s and it was only after WWII that they became widely available.

DMM Boa Keylock Locksafe Karabiner (30kN)
DMM Boa Keylock Locksafe Karabiner (30kN)
£20.69
£22.99
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1 In Stock

Keylock 30kN Boa, large HMS type Locksafe karabiner.

DMM WallDO Oval Wiregate Karabiner Pink
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DMM WallDO Oval Wiregate Karabiner
£8.99
£9.99
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3 In Stock

Probably the best krab for icefall activists to rack a knife and an Abalakov threader on.

Black Diamond Oval Keylock Karabiner Polished
Black Diamond Oval Keylock Karabiner Polished
£11.00
2 In Stock

Proven karabiner for big walling due to its smooth, uniform shape that reduces karabiner shift.

DMM PerfectO Karabiner Orange
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DMM PerfectO Karabiner
From £10.35
£11.50
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4 In Stock

A compact true oval karabiner that is easy to open one handed.

DMM PerfectO Screwgate Karabiner
DMM PerfectO Screwgate Karabiner DMM PerfectO Screwgate Karabiner DMM PerfectO Screwgate Karabiner
DMM PerfectO Screwgate Karabiner
£14.39
£15.99
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6 In Stock

The PerfectO Screwgate is a compact true oval karabiner that is easy to open one handed.

DMM Ultra O Oval Screwgate
DMM Ultra O Oval Screwgate Karabiner
£15.29
£16.99
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8 In Stock
Oval krabs are particularly useful in conjunction with pulleys as the pulley hangs straight, which does not happen with an Offset D krab. This one is a really oval Oval and more oval than most, which means that pulleys hang straighter. 76g.
BD Oval Keylock Screwgate Polished
SwatchSilver Black Diamond Oval Keylock Screwgate Karabiner
Black Diamond Oval Keylock Screwgate Karabiner
£13.00
2 In Stock

A great krab for use with pulleys and anything else that needs to hang straight.

Petzl OK Oval Screwgate Karabiner half open
Petzl OK Oval Screwgate Karabiner
£15.00
5 In Stock

An oval-shaped keylock screwgate krab ideal for hauling systems and use with pulleys as loads hang centrally.

DMM Revolver Wiregate Karabiner
DMM Revolver Wiregate Karabiner DMM Revolver Wiregate Karabiner DMM Revolver Wiregate Karabiner
DMM Revolver Wiregate Karabiner
From £25.19
£27.99
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3 In Stock

Revolutionary karabiner from DMM - designed to reduce rope drag.

DMM Revolver Screwgate Karabiner
DMM Revolver Screwgate Karabiner DMM Revolver Screwgate Karabiner DMM Revolver Screwgate Karabiner
DMM Revolver Screwgate Karabiner
From £27.89
£30.99
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3 In Stock

A screwgate version of DMM's innovative Revolver karabiner, designed particularly for use as a pulley.

Grivel Vlad Belay Station
Grivel Vlad Belay Station
£32.00
1 In Stock

Clever karabiner for rigging a belay - particularly useful for aid climbing but with many other applications.

DMM Rhino Screwgate
DMM Rhino Screwgate Karabiner
£13.49
£14.99
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1 In Stock

Prevents auto and assisted locking belay devices rotating and so reduces the risk of cross loading.

Climbing Technology Concept HMS SGL Belay Karabiner
Climbing Technology Concept HMS SGL Belay Karabiner
£17.99
Out of Stock

Screw gate HMS with keylock gate and special spring fastener that removes the danger of cross loading. 77g.

Edelrid Bulletproof HMS Belay Screwgate
Edelrid Bulletproof HMS Belay Screwgate Karabiner
£21.60
£24.00
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1 In Stock
Innovative hardwearing HMS belay karabiner with steel insert at the apex to protect against abrasion from grit in the rope and an internal spring bar to prevent it from turning round in circles
Grivel Clepsydra Twin Gate Large K10G
Grivel Clepsydra Twin Gate Large Karabiner
£18.50
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Innovative twingate belay/abseil karabiner that has an internal wiregate to prevent dangerous cross-loading.

Black Diamond Gridlock Belay Karabiner
Black Diamond Gridlock Belay Karabiner
£20.00
Out of Stock

Simple but cunning screwgate that eliminates the dangers of cross loading the gate when using a belay plate.

Ocun Condor Screwgate Belay Karabiner
Ocun Condor Screwgate Belay Karabiner
£16.95
1 In Stock

Big belay karabiner with an independent internal wire gate for safe belaying and abseiling.

DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner
DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner
DMM Ceros Screwgate Belay Karabiner
£19.79
£21.99
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4 In Stock

Minimises the risk of cross loading the gate whilst belaying. Screwgate.

DMM Ceros Kwiklock Belay Karabiner
DMM Ceros Kwiklock Belay Karabiner
£22.49
£24.99
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4 In Stock

Auto double locking karabiner for use with a belay device.

DMM Ceros Locksafe Belay Karabiner
DMM Ceros Locksafe Belay Karabiner
£23.39
£25.99
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3 In Stock

Triple locking karabiner for use with a belay device.

DMM Belay Master 2 HMS Screwgate Karabiner
DMM Belay Master 2 HMS Screwgate Karabiner
£19.80
£21.99
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1 In Stock

Prevents belay plate karabiners from turning round in use thus eliminating the risk of cross-loading the gate.

DMM Belay Master Clip
DMM Belay Master Clip
£5.00
1 In Stock

A spare plastic bit for your Belay Master.

Petzl Freino Twist Lock Karabiner
Petzl Freino Twist Lock Karabiner
£38.70
£43.00
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1 In Stock

Self-locking karabiner with a friction spur to quickly provide added rope friction.

Petzl Vertigo Wire Lock Karabiner
Petzl Vertigo Wire Lock Karabiner
£21.00
5 In Stock

Excellent auto-locking Vertigo Via Ferrata Karabiner is very easy to use one handed.

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