Also known as Friends, "Cams" are complex active protection devices that use springs, cables and cam lobes to lodge in crevices in the rock, and which enable protection of parallel sided and even slightly flared cracks.
Friends were one of the most significant inventions in climbing since the karabiner and the name is ubiquitously applied to all camming devices. However it should only really be used for those made by Wild Country - the rest all being derived from these. Recent innovations such as reverse cam strength (that means the device will still hold a fall even when the cams are fully open - provided that is that they actually catch on the rock in some way!) are useful, and dyneema slings, forged cams and other advances have made "Friends" a lot lighter than the earlier models, whilst reductions in scale have to be seen to be believed.
Such camming devices enable protection of parallel sided and even slightly flared cracks rendering safe routes that were virtually devoid of protection prior to their invention.
Camming devices work due the mathematical theory of logarithmic spiral ensuring that the line between the axle and point of contact is always at a constant angle to the rock surface, irrespective of the unit’s orientation. The greater the cam angle the greater the camming range but the lesser the holding power of the cam. Manufacturers such as Wild Country and DMM have determined that 13.75° is the angle that offers the best combination of holding power and expansion range, and their cams are designed to operate at a constant 13.75° however compressed or expanded they are and whatever the angle of the rock they are in contact with. Black Diamond obtain their greater expansion range partly by using twin axles but also by having a camming angle of 14.5°. There is a good explanation of camming angles by John Middendorf on bigwalls.net.
Superb single stemmed devices with reverse cam strength.
Give around a 25% weight saving over the standard Camalots.
Microcams that are rigid to place but flex once placed, reducing walking.
These offset Camalot Z4s are designed for flared peg scars and non-uniform placements.
A twin axle, single stem camming device to rival BD's Camalot. Singly and in sets.
Micro cams designed for irregular, flared cracks and peg scars.
The original camming devices but now with a massive make over. Singly and in sets.
Micro-cams for thin cracks and small pockets. Six sizes.
Micro-cams for thin cracks and small pockets.
Flexible, single-stem camming units with an optimised cam angle for increased holding power.
Highly innovative, stemless and highly flexible camming devices with very narrow head widths.
Sixth generation of the classic micro cam.
Not really camming devices, more spring loaded wedges and great for very thin cracks.
A good alternatives to cams for extra-wide cracks and offwidths.
Based on the old Chouinard Hexcentric, but much lighter.
A mere four sizes cover a large range (equivalent to five sizes in Rockcentrics).
A wired version of DMM's take on the large nut sizes.
One of the most successful designs of large nuts (chocks). Singly and in a part-set.
Replacement wires for the new double axled Friends - two kits of different sizes are available.
Cable repair kit for all single-stemmed plastic coated wire loop Camalots.
Cable repair kit for all Black Diamond Camalots Ultralights.
Cable repair kit for single stemmed metal-headed second generation Camalots.
Cable repair kit for sizes 0.1 to 0.75 of the single metal stemmed Camalots.
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